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Welcome... It's our goal at Midtown Auto Service & Repair Shop in Houston to always provide great car care services with high-quality workmanship at fair prices. You may have seen us on TV or heard us on the radio station, we are frequently featured on Channel 11 and Channel 2 on issues about car maintenance. Specifically, on Channel 2 we provided Q&A: the viewers, answers to their problems with their cars. Or maybe, heard us on the radio: nationally broadcasted on CARTALK or other Local Radio Stations around Houston. We are a leader in the knowledge of car repair, and hard to fix issues, that others cannot. Midtown Auto Service & Car Repair in Houston is a family-owned business that†is specialized in providing personalized service to our customers.
One of the highest recognitions for an auto repair shop in Houston is given by the State of Texas to be a Recognized Auto Repair and Emmissions Repair Facility. In 2007, there were less than 100 automotive repair shops in Houston that had this license by the State. That is a big disproportion considering there are over 5400 auto repair shops in Houston and the surrounding areas. Another factor to being a highly recognized Houston auto repair shop is being chosen by General Motors Inc. as an independent Auto Repair Service Center for Factory AC Delco Repairs on all GM repairs in Houston. Which includes, Buicks, Cadillacs, Chevrolets, GMC, GM Daewoos, Holdens, Hummers, Oldmobiles, Opels, Saab, Saturns, all make and models of their cars and trucks.. In addition, NAPA Auto Parts also endorses our company as an Approved Napa Auto Car Care Repair Centerin Houston which means that their company certifies us to do their repair warranties or any needed car service repairs. Also, our shop is an AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility that employs only ASE certified auto repair technicians. We are also considered by the BBB as a A+ rated shop, and is in good standing with the ethics of the Better Business Bureau for auto repair. Operating since 1987, we are conveniently located between the downtown & medical center, also known as Midtown.
Since 1987, Midtown Auto Service & Car Repair Shop in Houston has been committed to providing the highest quality automobile car repair service at affordable prices. We have established our auto repair business on sound ethical and moral principles. Simply put, our Houston auto repair business focuses on customer service, and your satisfaction is paramount. We want you to be pleased with our services so that you will continue to use us for your automobile repair-service needs in the future and tell your friends.
Our skill and knowledge about automobile car care enable us to address a broad range of auto repair-services of mechanical issues, which means you'll experience a higher, more comprehensive level of car care services and greater value with us.
How do we do it? We listen. Hearing your opinions about our car repair services, observations and concerns make it possible for us to work with you as a team. By earning your trust, we can better guide you toward solutions that meet your specific needs about your car auto repair services.
At Midtown Auto Service & Repair , you'll always get a clear explanation of what's happenings with your car repair, as well as whatever options you should be aware of when making your maintenance and auto repair decisions. That's our commitment to you. Please browse around our website to learn more about us and our commitment to provide you with the best service possible.
My Automotive /Car engine has a steady miss and gets terrible fuel milage. What's wrong? Houston, Tx
A steady miss indicates one of three things: a cylinder that isnít firing because of an ignition problem, a cylinder that isnít firing because it isnít receiving fuel (multipoint fuel injected engines only), or a cylinder that has lost compression. The first step in diagnosing this kind of problem is to identify the dead cylinder. A professional mechanic can do this quickly by hooking the engine up to an ignition oscilloscope and displaying an ignition raster pattern. The dead cylinder will show a firing voltage that is significantly higher or lower than its companions depending on the nature of the problem. He might also do a "power balance" test and/or a compression test to find the dead cylinder. One way you can find a weak or dead cylinder is to momentarily disconnect each of your engineís spark plug wires one at a time while the engine is running. When the plug wire is removed from the spark plug, there should be a big drop in idle speed and idle smoothness. When you pull a wire and thereís little or no change in idle speed or quality, youíve found the bad cylinder. It makes no difference whether you remove each plug wire from the spark plug or the distributor (or coil pack on distributorless ignition systems). The idea is to simply disconnect each cylinder for a moment to see if it makes any difference in the way the engine runs. The one that makes no difference is the problem cylinder. CAUTION: Disconnecting spark plug wires while the engine is dangerous because you risk getting shocked. You can minimize this danger one of several ways. One is to wear rubber gloves and use insulated spark plug wire pliers to momentarily disconnect each plug wire. Another is to make sure no part of your body is touching or leaning against any metal surface on the vehicle (the fender, hood, grille, etc.). Or, you could turn the engine off, remove a plug wire, restart the engine, note any change in idle, then repeat for each of the remaining spark plugs. Ignition Diagnosis If you disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug and hold the end of the wire close to the plug terminal or other metal surface, you should see a spark and/or hear a crisp snapping noise if voltage is getting through the wire. No spark would tell you the plug wire is bad, voltage is arcing inside the distributor cap (remove and inspect the cap for cracks and carbon tracks -- replace if any are found) or a dead coil on a distributorless ignition system (Note: on most distributorless ignition systems, each coil fires two cylinders. So if both cylinders are dead, you know for sure the coil is not working. If only one cylinder is dead, however, itís not the coil). If all of the plug wires seem to be sparking okay, the next step would be to remove the spark plug in the problem cylinder. Fouling is a common cause of ignition misfire. Examine the end of the plug. If the electrode is covered with deposits, clean or replace the spark plug. Also, note the type of deposits on the plug. Thick, black, wet or oily-looking deposits would tell you the cylinder is burning oil (probably due to worn valve guides, rings and/or cylinder wall). If the deposits are a powdery black, the cylinder is running too rich (probably due to a leaky injector on a multipoint fuel injected engine). If the deposits are brown or gray, it indicates a normal buildup. However, the plug may be fouled because it hasnít been changed for a long time, because it is the wrong "heat range" for your engine application (you need a hotter plug), or because of frequent short trip stop-and-go driving. In any event, if the plug is fouled you should probably remove, inspect and clean or replace all of the spark plugs. Fuel Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is receiving spark through the plug wire and the spark plug itself appears to be okay (not wet or fouled), and your engine has multipoint fuel injection you may have a dead fuel injector. To check for this kind of problem, start the engine and place your finger on the injector. You should feel a buzzing vibration if the injector is working. No buzz means the injector is either defective or it is not receiving a voltage signal through its wiring harness. You can check for the presence of voltage with a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. Disconnect the injector wiring connector and attach the test light or voltmeter between the injector and connector. If the light doesnít flash or you donít see a voltage reading when the engine is running, it indicates a wiring or computer problem that will require further diagnosis. If voltage is getting through but the injector isnít working, then the injector is defective and needs to be replaced. Sometimes the injector will appear to be working but really isnít. It will be receiving voltage and buzzing as normal, but because it is clogged up with varnish deposits little or no fuel is actually being squirted into the cylinder. If ignition and compression are both okay in the bad cylinder, therefore, it would tell you the injector is clogged. On-car cleaning may reopen the clogged injector is the varnish isnít built up too thick. But a completely clogged injector usually doesnít respond well to this type of cleaning. It either has to be removed for off-car cleaning (which may or may not succeed id reopening it) or be replaced. Compression Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is getting spark and fuel, the only thing thatís left is a compression problem. The most likely causes here would be a leaky valve (probably an exhaust valve since they run much hotter than intake valves and usually fail or "burn" first), a blown head gasket (this usually involves two adjacent cylinders, however), or a rounded or badly worn cam lobe. A compression check will verify if the cylinder is developing its normal compression. Little or no compression would verify any of the above problems. A leakage test could also be used to further diagnose and identify the nature of the problem (valves, head gasket or cam). Air leakage through the exhaust port would indicate a bad exhaust valve. Air leakage back through the intake manifold would indicate a bad intake valve. Air leaking into an adjacent cylinder would indicate a blown head gasket. Minimal leakage would indicate a rounded cam lobe. Leaky valves would require removing the cylinder head and having a valve job performed. A leaky head gasket would require removing the head and replacing the gasket (and probably resurfacing the head to restore flatness). A cam problem would require removing and replacing the camshaft and lifters (old lifters should never be reused with a new cam).
Midtown Auto Service & Repair - ph: (713) 523-2886 | (713) 523-AUTO