Midtown Auto-Voted Houston’s Auto Repair of the Year 2007/Houston,Tx
July 18th, 2008Midtown Auto Service & Repair — Voted Houston’s Auto Repair of the Year 2007
http://thebestoftheyear.com/houston/
JUNE 2008 FEATURED ARTICLE-BEST AUTO REPAIR SHOP HOUSTON-MIDTOWN AUTO SERVICE
June 11th, 2008Award-Winning Shop Lives by Golden Rule
Posted 6/1/2008
By Leona Dalavai Scott 
Shop Stats
Name: Midtown Auto Service
Location: Houston, Texas
Web site: www.midtownautoservice.net
Square footage of shop: 6,000 square feet
Repairs per week: 150 cars
No. of years in business: 21 years
On his success rate with retaining technicians: “I offer my technicians two weeks of paid vacation during Christmas and New Year’s after they’ve been employed with me for a year. Also, I treat them and their spouses to dinners and lunches on random occasions. I try to let them take care of family or personal business without penalties. All of my techs have their own computers with Internet access to Alldata and Identifix. Things like that really make a person want to stay.”
 |
| Mikey Yu credits his prime location for business staying strong even during tough economic times. |
Mikey Yu is not your average shop owner. With a criminal justice degree from the University of Houston, he always wanted to be a cop.
But when his dad retired in 1998, Mikey thought that it would be a smart move to buy the shop from him. Within four years of taking over the shop, he expanded the facility from 2,900 square feet to 6,000 square feet. Along the way, he earned his ASE
certification to become an auto technician.
Mikey is also a state-certified inspector and his shop, Midtown Auto Service, is a state-certified emissions and repair facility. The shop is known in the community for its engine and emissions diagnostic capabilities and for solving electrical driveability issues for all makes and models.
Mikey says his shop’s strength stems from the way it treats its customers and its technicians. He conducts his business by the golden rule: “Do to others as you would have them do to you.” He believes you should treat your customers and employees the way you would want to be treated.
 |
| ASE certified master tech working on a 2004 Lexus ES 300 timing belt. |
“And if you treat your employees as family members instead of just a number, I think that productivity increases,” Mikey says. Midtown Auto Service employs two L1 master auto techs and another master auto tech. Mikey’s wife, Sharon, handles all of the administrative work in the office while Mikey takes care of the “heart of the business,” which he sees as fielding questions and calls from customers and handling technician concerns and problems.
“Our line of work is difficult,” Mikey explains. “The customers who bring their cars and trucks to us normally know nothing about repairing their cars but have heard horror stories about other automotive service shops in the past. So, you start building a rapport with customers and listen to issues about their car. Just listen. Listening is very important. That can help break the barrier of customer distrust from the beginning.”
 |
| Another, Master ASE tech working on a car using his 1/2 cordless SnapOn gun. |
As a result of his business philosophy, Mikey has experienced great success with Midtown Auto Service. In 2007, the shop was named the “Best Auto Shop” by Citysearch, a popular Web site that enables users to post opinions on just about anything, including recommendations for services such as auto care. In 2006, the shop was named “Best Auto Repair Shop” by the local newspaper. In addition, the shop is a AAA-approved auto repair facility and a recognized emissions repair facility.
Mikey also shares his knowledge and expertise of cars through articles in Undercar Digest and Automotive Report. He has also been featured on “Car Talk,” an entertaining radio show about automotive service issues that is broadcast on National Public Radio.
 |
| ASE L1 MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN; Marco Rodriguez is working on an electrical drain/short on a 2006 Jaguar S-type. |
As he looks toward the future, Mikey would like to expand his shop. He is currently trying to acquire the land next to his so he can double his shop size to 12,000 square feet or more. However, real estate in his area has skyrocketed so he is proceeding on those plans with caution. Despite the downturn in the economy, Mikey says Midtown Auto Service’s business has been good as a result of its prime location between downtown and the medical districts of Houston.
As Mikey celebrates the success of Midtown Auto Service, the thing he is most proud of, he said, is the teamwork his employees exhibit in working with the motoring public. As his accolades and accomplishments show, this teamwork is paying off nicel
We are a Texas Approved AAA Auto Repair Facility in Houston. Also, we are an Independent Auto Care/Repair Factory Dealer Service Center for AC Delco in Houston, with ASE Certified Technicians. Recognized by the state of Texas, Midtown Auto Service & Repair is licenced to issue auto inspections on all types of vehicles. Being a State Recognized Emmission Repair Facility we offer low income waivers, low milage waivers, individual vehicle waivers, to everyone who failed their state / emmission inspections. Also, some of our services include, auto engine diagnostics, auto engine repair, auto engine misfires, auto check engine light on, auto overheating problems, auto emissions failures, auto drivability issues, brakes,alignments,complete exhaust repairs,tire balancing & rotations, timing belts, waterpumps, auto electrical troubleshooting, doors & windows, oil changes,shocks/struts,A/C work,state inspections and much much more. We have been featured in magazines such as Undercar Digest, Tech Shop and Automotive Report. These magazines were contacted by other auto repair shop owners and customers who reported us worthy as a featured story. Midtown Auto Service is honored by these recognitions of these auto technical trade magazines. Which is considered a great achievement from our peers. Also, Citysearch has awarded Midtown Auto Service as Best Auto Repair Shop 2006-2007. Citysearch awarded us with a plaque, “Best Auto Repair 2006 - Audience Winner.” In 2007, Citysearch again awarded us with two rewards, “Best Auto Repair 2007 - Audience Winner & Editorial Winner.” Thus, making Midtown Auto Service the only auto service care facility in Houston, Texas to win two years in a row by Citysearch. In addition, Midtown Auto Service have won other coveted national recognitions, such as, “Yahoo 2005 Best & Trusted Auto Care Facility” and by “The Local Newspaper - The Best Auto Service 2006.” We are also listed in a national radio broadcast, “Car Talk” as listed as a good repair shop to visit in Houston in their “mechanics file.” Come and try us out and see the difference, we are conveniently located between the downtown & medical center, also known as Midtown. In conclusion, we service all foreign, domestic and most european cars. In addition, we take checks and all 4 major credit cards,( checks, MasterCard, Visa, Discover, & American Express) CHECK US OUT ON OUR WEBSITE: Contact: (713) 523-2886 AutoInc. Web Site | ASA Web Site | ASA Encourages Legislative Participation | Spray Booth Safety | Trigger Point: Is It Time You Serviced Hybrids? | Lip Service: First-Class Telephone Skills | Guest Editorial | Tech to Tech | Tech Tips |
AUTO REPAIR SERVICE HOUSTON-MIDTOWN AUTO SERVICE
March 6th, 2008
Welcome! It’s our goal at Midtown Auto Service & Repair Shop in Houston to always provide great service and high-quality workmanship at a fair price. Midtown Auto Service & Repair is a family-owned business that has specialized in providing personalized service to our customers.
Since 1987, Midtown Auto Service & Repair Shop in Houston has been committed to providing the highest quality automobile repair service at affordable prices. We have established our auto repair business on sound ethical and moral principles. Simply put, our Houston auto repair business focuses on customer service, and your satisfaction is paramount. We want you to be pleased with our services so that you will continue to use us for your automobile repair-service needs in the future and tell your friends.
Our skill and knowledge about automobiles enable us to address a broad range of auto repair-services of mechanical issues, which means you’ll experience a higher, more comprehensive level of service and greater value with us.
How do we do it? We listen. Hearing your opinions, observations and concerns make it possible for us to work with you as a team. By earning your trust, we can better guide you toward solutions that meet your specific needs about your car auto repair services.
At Midtown Auto Service & Repair , you’ll always get a clear explanation of what’s happenings with your car, as well as whatever options you should be aware of when making your maintenance and auto repair decisions. That’s our commitment to you. Please browse around our website to learn more about us and our commitment to provide you with the best service possible.
One of the highest recognitions for an auto repair shop in Houston is given by the State of Texas to be a Recognized Auto Repair and Emmissions Repair Facility. In turn, it gives us privileges from the State of Texas for issuing Automotive Repair and Replacement Assistance in Houston & the surrounding areas. In 2007, there were less than 100 automotive repair shops in Houston that had this license by the State. That is a big disproportion considering there are over 3400 auto repair shops in Houston and the surrounding areas. Another factor to being a highly recognized Houston auto repair shop is being chosen by General Motors Inc. as an independent Auto Repair Service Center: AC Delco Factory Houston Auto Repair Facility. NAPA Auto Parts also endorses our company as an Approved Napa Auto Car Care Repair Center in Houston which means that their company certifies us to do their repair warranties or any needed repairs. Also, our shop is an AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility that employs only ASE certified auto technicians. Operating since 1987, we are conveniently located between the downtown & medical center, also known as Midtown.
CHECK US OUT ON OUR WEBSITE:
Contact: (713) 523-2886
STEERING GEARS RACK AND PINION STEERING GEARS-STEERING ASSIST-DIAGNOSTIC TIPS AUTO REPAIR HOUSTON,TX
February 5th, 2008Diagnostic Solutions
STEERING GEARSKeeping Your Customers’ Vehicles on The Straight & Narrowby Gary Goms, Import Specialist ContributorModern automotive steering gears evolved from the quaint tiller-controlled steering systems used in the first automobiles to the hydraulically controlled systems now used in most import vehicles. Unfortunately, steering tillers that attached to axles with little or no steering geometry didn’t provide much steering feedback from the road surface. When vehicle speeds approached 20 mph, auto manufacturers began to incorporate more sophisticated steering systems to help the driver keep the vehicle traveling in a straight line.As vehicles became heavier and more difficult to steer, auto manufacturers developed different types of steering gears designed to change the rotating motion of the steering wheel and shaft into a lateral motion transmitted through the steering linkage to the steering knuckles and front wheels. This system has prevailed to this day.KINGPIN INCLINATION
As steering gear technology progressed, innovations in steering geometry also aided steering gear functions. The popular introduction of kingpin inclination (KPI) during the early 1920s, for example, eased steering effort by tilting the kingpin inward at the top, so that a line drawn through the kingpin angle intersects with the center of the tire tread. KPI is also present in ball joint or MacPherson strut systems, with the angle of the upper and lower ball joints or MacPherson strut intersecting with the center of the tire tread. KPI actually accomplishes three separate, but related, steering functions. First, KPI reduces steering effort by allowing the tire to pivot on the center of its tread rather than be swung around the axis of a vertical kingpin. Second, KPI greatly reduces the probability that a wheel striking a pothole may suddenly spin the steering wheel out of the driver’s hands. Third, KPI actually lifts one side of the vehicle and lowers the other as the wheels are turned. This lifting effect, combined with caster angle, forces the front wheels to return to a straight-ahead position. For all of the above reasons, steering effort increases and the steering wheel becomes more sensitive to road shock whenever offset custom wheels are installed on a vehicle.
THE ROLE OF CASTER ANGLE
Caster angle also plays a function in all steering gear systems. Positive caster angle can be easily visualized in the backward tilt of a bicycle’s front fork. Positive caster angle, of course, allows the bicycle to steer itself when the rider takes his hands off the handlebars. Although some auto manufacturers may employ negative caster angle to accomplish the same purpose, caster helps force the front wheels to return to center when the driver releases the steering wheel.
CONVENTIONAL STEERING GEARS
Although conventional parallelogram steering linkage systems are being replaced by the more modern rack and pinion steering gears, many heavier vehicles such as luxury sedans and pickup trucks still use conventional steering gears. Early steering gears were crude, bronze-bushed units that required a great amount of steering effort to turn the wheels. As vehicles became heavier, ball and needle-roller bearings were used to reduce friction in the steering gear assembly. In addition, a recirculating ball-bearing worm gear assembly was introduced that greatly reduced friction between the worm gear mounted on the steering gear input shaft and the sector gear mounted on the steering output shaft.
As vehicle speeds increased, it became very important for the steering gear to transmit a sense of “road feel” to the driver. Without a fine-tuned sense of steering wheel center, it became difficult for a driver to drive in a straight line at high speed. To accomplish this, engineers designed a worm and sector gear that would develop zero clearance or lash when the steering gear operated in the centered or straight-ahead position. The fact that the steering gear ‘tightens” up when the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position gives the driver a much finer sense of when the vehicle is tracking in a straight line.
As the wheels are turned, the steering gear rolls off the “high spot” and develops clearance between the worm and sector gears. This added clearance reduces friction and helps the front wheels return to the straight-ahead position when the driver releases the steering wheel. In addition, the high spot in the steering gear tends to stop or hold the steering gear in the straight-ahead position by increasing friction between the worm and sector gears. This particular feature helps prevent the driver from over-steering the vehicle.
RACK-AND-PINION STEERING GEARS
Rack and pinion steering gears were popularly introduced into the import market during the 1950s because they provided fast steering wheel response and had fewer parts. In this system, a rack gear is attached to the right and left steering knuckles by tie rods that swivel to allow vertical movement in the suspension system. The pinion gear, of course, is attached to the steering shaft and moves the rack in a lateral direction in response to steering wheel input. Like the conventional steering gear, the rack and pinion is machined to decrease gear lash as the steering wheel returns to the center position.
STEERING ASSIST
Steering assist systems incorporate a hydraulic pump driven by an engine accessory drive belt to provide pressure to a steering assist cylinder attached to the sector gear in conventional systems or the rack gear in rack and pinion systems.
To provide full steering assist, the power steering pump must produce at least 1,000 psi pressure upon demand. Because a power steering pump is used only a small percentage of time, the pump is equipped with a hydraulic boost or computer-controlled, pulse-modulated valve assembly that allows it to free-wheel during highway driving. To fine-tune steering wheel response, the steering gear shaft is equipped with a torsion bar that opens a metering valve as torque is applied to the steering wheel. Due to the action of the torsion bar, the amount of oil pressure metered to the steering assist cylinder is directly proportional to the torque being applied to the steering wheel.
The metering valve assembly is very sensitive because it’s often equipped with compressible reaction discs that further increase the steering gear’s sensitivity to steering wheel torque. Some manufacturers, such as Honda, have used axle-driven mechanical systems that limit power steering assist to low-speed driving situations. In other applications, steering pump pressure may be controlled by using a pulse-width modulation system that varies pressure in response to steering wheel demand and highway speed.
DIAGNOSTIC TIPS
On high-mileage vehicles with a steering wander complaint, the sector gear lash might require adjusting to eliminate excessive lash between the worm and sector gears. Early manual rack and pinion gears also have a similar adjustment that reduces lash between the pinion and rack gears.
A steering gear may also transmit steering feedback to the driver only when it’s installed in the centered position. In most cases, a four-wheel alignment may be required to recenter the steering gear. The first step is to always make sure that indexing marks on the steering wheel and steering shaft are aligned. The last step is to adjust front and rear toe angles to correspond with the vehicle’s centerline or thrust angle. When removing the steering wheel, always follow the manufacturers’ instructions regarding the disarming of the air bag and preventing damage to the air bag clock spring.
Any power steering gear can develop a “lack of assist” complaint. Generally speaking, a worn power steering pump is usually indicated if steering assist deteriorates as the steering oil begins to warm up and lose viscosity. In contrast, some rack and pinion steering gears may develop an intermittent condition called “morning sickness.” This particular lack of steering assist is caused by the metering valve oil seals wearing grooves into the soft aluminum steering gear housing. As the steering gear oil warms up, the valve assembly reseals itself to the housing and restores steering assist. Because special tools and expertise might be required to rebuild a steering gear, it’s more cost-effective to install a new or remanufactured gear than to repair or rebuild an old one.
Last, it’s always important to use application-specific power steering fluid in import applications. In the case of Honda, using non-OE specification fluid can ruin the steering gear seals. In other applications, using the wrong fluid or mixing fluids can cause the steering fluid to foam, which may cause a howling noise and temporary reduction of steering assist.
CAR-AUTO-ENGINE P0401 ENGINE CODES EGR PROBLEMS-NOx EMMISSIONS PROBLEMS-HOUSTON,TX
February 1st, 2008
EGR ISSUESDealing with P0401 Codesby Bob DowieExhaust gas recirculation (EGR) has been used for years to control combustion temperature to prevent spark knock as well as control NOx emissions. For the most part, these systems were trouble-free and required service only if you were dealing with a spark knock issue, or if the valve opened too early, resulting in a tip-in acceleration stumble, or the more common, bad idle quality caused by the valve not closing completely at idle.  As emission controls got tighter, and with the advent of OBD II, things started to change. We not only saw additional driveability complaints, but we also had the check engine light (CEL) telling the customer there was an emissions failure that had to be dealt with for the good of the environment and, in most states, to pass the annual vehicle inspection. In this article, we’ll take a look at some Honda EGR issues, which have also plagued the Acura line.
We’ll start with the four-cylinder Accord engines. While there have been some reports of problems with the Civic, problems with the Accord have been the most prevalent. Driveability complaints are more common than check engine lights on these models through the ‘90s. What you’ll be faced with is a stumble complaint, which is actually a misfire at part-throttle, that’s most prevalent on initial acceleration when the EGR valve is commanded to open. It feels almost like a bad wire and happens just when you’d expect a secondary ignition problem — part-load acceleration. The cause of the misfire is an excess of recycled exhaust gasses in one or more cylinders. The cause of this excess flow is actually plugged passages in the manifold leading to the other cylinders. When there is no flow to those cylinders, the remaining cylinders receive all the exhaust gasses, which cause the miss. This problem has caused a great deal of frustration with techs, resulting in a lot of misdiagnosis. That’s not very surprising considering how well this problem mimics a secondary ignition problem. Then, to further confuse the issue, if there is a CEL, it’s often for the misfire and not the EGR system. Up until 1998, when the electronically controlled EGR valves were introduced, Honda looked at the EGR lift sensor to confirm that the valve received vacuum and opened, and that flow was taking place. Since the valve is opening, the ECU figures all is well there, but it’s well trained to pick up a misfire and is quick to report any problem that would hurt the catalytic converter. MISDIAGNOSIS WOES You’ll probably get a check engine light but, if the miss is gone, you’ll know for sure that the EGR system is the culprit. But don’t overlook checking the ignition components. It’s good to know the miss is fixed, but there’s never a bad time to bring the car up-to-snuff on maintenance items. Plus, you wouldn’t want the car coming back with a bad cap, wires or plugs next week if you could’ve taken care of those items now. If disabling the EGR eliminated the miss, it’s time to clean out the passages. The procedure differs slightly depending on the year of the vehicle. The early cars used a blind core plug to seal the manifold runner EGR port after machining. We’ve found that the best way to remove these plugs is to drill a small hole partially into the plug, and using a self-tapping screw, or tapping the hole for a machine screw and using a small slide hammer, to pull them out. Partially drilling them will allow you to reuse the plugs if no replacements are on hand. Replacement plugs are available and there’s actually a kit from Honda that includes the tools and plug. Needless to say, caution is required when drilling or tapping. Grease up the drill bit and tap to catch as many of the chips as possible. Using a shop vac is a much better choice than compressed air to keep the area clean as you work. With the plugs removed, the blockage will be obvious and can be easily dislodged using a stiff wire and carb cleaner. Be sure to clean the entire port again to keep the vacuum running. This procedure is well outlined in service bulletin #98-074, which should be available on your service information system. The next era of four-cylinder cars saw the plugs replaced by a plate covering the EGR channel as well as the ports. This was a big improvement that eliminates the need to drill and allows us to better clean out any carbon buildup in the channel and the ports. Accessibility isn’t a problem, but the injectors will have to be removed. To be safe, you may want to have injector seals available, but they can often be reused. The latest of the four cylinders use a two-piece intake plenum with the EGR passages cast into the upper section. These cars don’t seem to suffer from the misfire problems of the earlier cars, but are more apt to have flow problems that will be picked up by the more observant OBD system setting a check engine light. To access the EGR ports and channel on these engines, split the intake and use a stiff wire to clean out the ports — a very similar procedure to the V6s that we’ll talk about next. In recent years, EGR problems seem to be most prevalent on V-6 engines used in the popular Odyssey minivan, Accords and SUVs; only the worst cases will present driveability symptoms. It will be the check engine light providing the motivation for the customer, using the same enhanced code-setting criteria as the late-model four cylinders. When Honda went to the electronically controlled sensor, they were now able to command the amount of lift, monitor the actual amount of lift and look at the MAP sensor making sure it had the expected effect on air flow. If anything unexpected happens on two trips, the check engine light will let the customer know. The EGR passages on the six cylinders are in the upper section of the intake manifold. Some of the gaskets are reusable, but if you’re going in, the safe bet is to at least have a throttle body gasket on hand. To get started:
CAUSES OF A P0401 CODE With the electrical connecter unplugged from the switching valve, introduce battery voltage to the black/yellow wire and apply ground to the red wire at the valve side of the electrical connector. If all is well, you’ll show vacuum on the gauge. As I said, these valves have a reputation for being intermittent, so repeat the test in quick succession looking for slow or no response on the gauge.
On the reporting side, the yellow and blue is the 5V reference signal from the ECU for the position sensor, the green and black is ECU ground, with the white and black sending the signal back to the ECU, letting it know how the EGR is responding to direction. An increase in operational duty cycle should result in a smooth increase in reporting voltage with no dropouts. Many scan tools will let you look at and log command and reporting data on a road test. Otherwise, with good access, it’s not difficult to back-probe the connector and get the same info on a multi-channel graphing meter. We can also use what we know about the wiring to check for blocked passages and the basic operation of the valve. With the electrical connector disconnected, the valve will open by putting battery power to the terminal that the pink wire is connected to and grounding the black wire terminal. If the ports are clear and the valve is working, the engine should quickly get rough or stall, and smooth out when the valve is closed. When diagnosing a driveability problem, it’s important to keep in mind if you have a problem on light acceleration at low RPM, when the EGR is commanded on, suspect the EGR system. Or, an intermittent rough idle may be the result of the valve not completely closing. Otherwise, the EGR system shouldn’t be suspected. If I can leave you with one solid tip for diagnosing and repairing EGR problems on the Honda line of vehicles, it’s to check your service information system for service bulletins. Honda does a great job of making this information available to the aftermarket, and it’s just foolish not to take advantage of it. If you’re not going online, checking for bulletins and making full use of services like iATN, import-car.com and OEM info like that available from Honda (www.techinfo.honda.com), you’re just leaving too much good information untapped. The way things are going, you won’t be able to afford doing that much longer. |
The aforementioned update kit is fully explained in Honda service bulletin #05-026, which also details the 8-year, 80,000-mile warranty extension for the EGR system. Many of these cars have been updated, but you’ll still see plenty of them with well over 80,000 miles that will be experiencing this problem, as well as some vehicles that aren’t covered in the bulletin. Nonetheless, the bulletin is a good resource to have.
The electronic EGR valves are quite reliable but certainly haven’t been trouble-free; the problems we’re seeing with them are more about them sticking and not doing what they’re told. The good news is they’re not hard to diagnose when you know what you’re looking at. Let’s look at the connector on a 2002 model. We have five wires that handle valve operation and reporting; the valve is power-side controlled with a duty cycle signal from the ECU through the pink wire that gets its ground from the black wire.AUTO-CAR-FUEL-INJECTORS-DIAGNOSTIC-SERVICE-ENGINE PROBLEMS-HOUSTON,TX
February 1st, 2008
Is There Enough Pressure?Fuel Injection Diagnosis & ServiceBy Larry Carley, technical editorOne of the first questions that should always be asked — and answered — when diagnosing a fuel-related complaint on a fuel injected engine is, “What is the fuel pressure?” All too often, technicians assume fuel pressure is “good” without actually measuring it with a gauge. If the engine runs, they assume the injectors are getting adequate fuel pressure. If the engine cranks but won’t start, and they depress the service valve on the fuel rail and some fuel squirts out, they assume the injectors have pressure. They do, but the question remains, “How much pressure?” For the engine to start and run smoothly with no stalling, hesitation or misfiring, the injectors have to deliver the proper amount of fuel with every squirt. This is especially important on late-model engines with sequential fuel injection. One bad injector will cause a noticeable misfire and usually set a P030X misfire code (where X represents the cylinder that is misfiring). On older engines where the injectors are all fired simultaneously, the good injectors can often compensate for one or two bad injectors. Even so, for the engine to run right, fuel pressure to the injectors is critical as is the volume of fuel delivered by each injector when it fires.
It’s All About Fuel Pressure On certain Jaguar engines, for example, the factory spec calls for 37 psi of fuel pressure. If you see 36 psi or 38 psi, you need to replace the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel Volume Is Just As Important The old rule of thumb that says a “good” fuel pump will flow about a pint of fuel in 15 seconds (half a gallon per minute) still holds true, but some engines need more than this. So the fuel delivery specifications also need to be looked up to see if the pump is delivering an adequate supply of fuel to the engine.
The flow meter can be hooked up to the supply line that runs to the fuel rail to measure flow. But Linder says a better method for checking fuel flow and pump capacity is to hook up the flow meter to the return line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator back to the fuel tank. Then check the return flow at idle, 2,500 rpm and 5,000 rpm. The volume of fuel flowing through the return line will drop as engine speed increases because more fuel is flowing through the injectors. Even so, the return flow for a good fuel pump with adequate pumping capacity at 5,000 rpm should still be about half the volume it had at idle (say 0.23 gpm versus 0.46 gpm). If the return flow at 5,000 rpm drops to 10% or less of the idle return flow rate, the fuel pump probably does not have enough reserve capacity to keep up with the engine when the engine is under load. The weak pump will starve the engine for fuel, causing it to misfire and lose power. Get The Right Replacement Pump What’s more, some parts suppliers have over-consolidated their fuel pump lines to reduce the number of SKUs needed to provide broad market coverage. Pump capacities can always be higher than specifications, but should never be lower. So if you get a pump that is flow rated at 0.4 gpm and you install it in a vehicle that requires 0.5 or 0.6 gpm, the pump may supply enough fuel at idle and low rpm, but may starve the engine at higher loads and speeds. Yet it is not a “bad” pump — just an under-rated pump for the application. Fuel Pressure Regulator Problems If fuel pressure is low, disconnect the vacuum hose to the regulator. You should see an increase in pressure if the regulator is not leaking. No change would indicate a bad regulator. Likewise, you can pinch or block the return line temporarily to see if pressure goes up. If it does, it means the regulator is bypassing too much fuel back to the tank and needs to be replaced. Also, check the vacuum hose to the regulator for the presence of fuel inside the hose (there should be none). Fuel in the hose means the diaphragm inside the regulator is leaking and the regulator needs to be replaced. Dirty Injectors It doesn’t take much of a restriction in an injector to lean out the fuel mixture. Only an 8% to 10% restriction in a single fuel injector can be enough to upset the air/fuel mixture and cause a misfire. Gasoline contains waxy compounds that can leave varnish deposits in the injectors when the fuel evaporates. These deposits tend to form after the engine is shut off. Heat from the engine causes residual fuel in the injector tips to evaporate.
On four cylinder engines, the #2 and #3 injectors are in the hottest location and tend to clog up faster than the end injectors on cylinders #1 and #4. The same applies to the injectors in the middle cylinders in six- and eight-cylinder engines. The hotter the location, the more vulnerable the injector is to clogging from heat soak. The cure for dirty injectors is to clean them (on-car, or off-car with special injector cleaning machine), or to replace them if cleaning fails to restore normal flow rate and nozzle pattern. Fuel Injector Electrical Checks One way to check the injectors is with an ohmmeter (key off). Disconnect the wiring connector from each injector, and measure the resistance between the injector’s terminals. Look up the specifications, don’t guess. Some specs may call for 2 to 3 ohms of resistance (typical for “peak and hold” injectors) while others require 12 to 16 ohms of resistance (“high resistance” injectors). The specs are fairly narrow, and with good reason. So if the factory specifications call for 12 to 16 ohms of resistance, and you find several injectors that are only a few ohms higher or lower, the injectors should probably be replaced. And if the injector resistance readings are significantly higher or lower than specifications, there’s no question they need to be replaced. On GM vehicles with Multec injectors, the minimum resistance must be at least 12 ohms. Anything less means the injector is bad and needs to be replaced. Another method for finding weak injectors if you don’t have specs is to measure and compare the resistance of all the injectors. If you find one or two that are noticeably higher or lower than the others, they probably need to be replaced. Injector Scope Checks When the PCM energizes the injector, current starts to flow through the circuit. This causes the waveform on the scope to ramp up. When current reaches about 70% of maximum, the injector usually opens, creating a bump in the pattern. When the PCM opens the ground circuit to turn the injector off, the pattern drops back to zero. On engines that have the low resistance peak-and-hold style injectors, the scope will typically show a pattern with a sharp peak that drops to a plateau until the injector turns off, then it spikes again (two peaks total in the pattern). The peak is typically at 4 amps, and the hold (plateau portion of the pattern) is at 1 amp. On high resistance injectors, a shorted injector that fails to open won’t produce a bump in the pattern. And if you see a sharp vertical rise in the current pattern, it means the injector is bad. A shorted injector can sometimes pull down the PCM driver circuit, preventing other injectors from firing depending on how the PCM driver circuits are configured. On most vehicles, the injectors receive battery voltage when the ignition is on, and the PCM driver circuit provides the ground connection to turn the injectors on and off. If you have a dead injector, therefore, one of the first things to check would be voltage at the injector terminal. If it is less than battery voltage, there may be high resistance in the connector or wiring harness. If more than one injector is getting low voltage, the fault may be a bad injector power supply relay. When the PCM energizes (grounds) the injector circuit, the voltage reading on the supply side should drop to zero as long as the injector is energized. This verifies the PCM ground drive circuit is working and that current is flowing through the injector. When the PCM opens the injector circuit, it creates a momentary voltage spike, which can be seen on an oscilloscope if you hook up the scope to the injector circuit. When the injector pintle closes, it creates a little bump in the scope pattern, which should be consistent from one pulse to the next. If the scope shows multiple bumps or the pattern is changing, it means the injector pintle is sticking, or the injector is dirty. Flow Matching Injectors Subaru Fuel Injector Removal Procedures  When removing and/or replacing the fuel injector(s), it’s imperative that the below instructions be strictly followed. Failing to do so may result in damageto the injector(s).Applicability: All Legacy, Impreza and SVX models. Note: Pliers or any other tools not specified in these instructions should not be used under any circumstances to prevent damage to the fuel injector(s). Fuel Injector Removal:
Fuel Injector Installation:
Courtesy of ALLDATA. |
The fuel calibration curves in the powertrain control module (PCM) are based on OEM dyno testing using a new engine. Fuel pressure is within a specified range for that engine, and the injectors are all clean and new. The adaptive fuel control strategies that are built into a PCM that allow it to adjust short term and long term fuel trim to compensate for variances in fuel pressure and fuel delivery can maintain the correct air/fuel ratio — but only within certain limits. If an injector becomes clogged with fuel varnish deposits and fails to deliver its normal dose of fuel when it is energized, or fuel pressure to the injector drops below specifications because of a weak fuel pump, plugged fuel filter or leaky fuel pressure regulator, the PCM may not be able to increase injector duration enough to offset the difference. This can leave the air/fuel mixture too lean, causing the cylinder to misfire.
A fuel flow meter is the most accurate means of measuring fuel delivery. The floating ball on the meter shows the fuel flow in gallons per minute (gpm).
Gasoline is supposed to contain enough detergent to prevent these deposits from sticking and accumulating in the injectors. But guess what? Not all gasolines are the same. Some brands contain much lower levels of detergent than others. Consequently, filling up with the cheapest gas one can find may not be the best idea in the long run — especially for short-trip, stop-and-go city driving that causes deposits to form at a much faster rate. To counter this, a growing number of gasoline retailers (Chevron, Conoco, Kwik Trip, Shell, Texaco, 76 and others) now comply with “Top Tier” standards that call for higher levels of detergent to keep injectors clean.
Note: Be careful not to damage the fuel injector cap mounting threads.ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT SHORTS PARASITIC DRAW BATTERY-CAR-REPAIR-HOUSTON,TX
February 1st, 2008
Exterminating Electrical ParasitesBy Glen Beanard, technical contributorAny electrical circuit that is wired “hot at all times” has the potential to become a parasite to the battery. There are some wanted parasites on the vehicle that are necessary to have, and some that are not. We’re going to find out how to “fingerprint” and track down the unwanted ones systematically.A parasitic draw on the battery means that, while the key is in the off position, something is pulling amperage from the battery. Like a glass of water that is slowly sipped on, it will run dry. The symptoms of a parasitic draw, or the customer complaints, can vary depending on the situation. Not every vehicle with a parasitic draw will come towed in with a dead battery. In fact, some may not even require jump starting to bring them in. It just depends on how low the battery is allowed to get before the next start. Intermittent electrical issues like:
When the customer experiences one of these issues that could be caused by a weak battery, possibly from a draw, it can be helpful to perform a full body code scan. Clues can be found in various modules such as a P1000 in the PCM, or “battery voltage low” codes found in air bag, ABS, instrument cluster and various body controller modules. A vehicle with a battery voltage low code stored in any module should be tested for a parasitic draw. Prepping the Patient
Next, set your ammeter up at the easiest to access (and cleanest) battery terminal. Though you could just snatch the cable off and put your ammeter in-line, I suggest some care is taken at this point. With most top post batteries anyway, it is possible to set your ammeter up without breaking the circuit with just a few simple and quick steps.
Step 2: Lift the battery cable up, the ammeter will be completing the circuit if the cable loses contact with the post. Then slide the cable over to the pointed probe that is on the top of the post. Push the eye of the battery cable down so that it is in contact with the battery post. See Photo 3.
Step 4: Pull the battery cable away from the post and drag the pointed probe back to the mounting dent that you made in the top of the battery post. A few twists of the probe into the soft lead post, and the probe will stand up and hold itself in place for testing. See Photo 5.
Ever have an alarm system lock out the starter and find out that the customer has no key fob for it? That’s real fun. Granted, with the nature of the problem that we might be looking for next, we just might wipe OK, so now the ammeter is set up and we have a value showing on the meter. Wow, the meter is showing 0.59 amps. See Photo 6.
If you know the signature amperage, and you’ve narrowed the suspect down, you might be able to prove to yourself what the draw is by manually stimulating a suspect module to see if its signature draw matches what you were hunting for before it “healed” itself. You can’t do that accurately with a test light.
That’s better; some modules have gone to sleep, but still something is sneaking electron sips from the battery and we have its fingerprint. The next step is to isolate the circuit where the offender is hiding. A great way to do this is remove and reinsert underhood fuses one by one while monitoring the draw amperage. However, keep in mind, that while you do this, you will often wake up modules when you reinsert When fuse 1 was pulled, the current dropped to zero. Looking at the fuse explanation chart (Photo 10) for the under Pulling these fuses one at a time in the interior fuse panel hit pay dirt when fuse 3 was removed, the current draw dropped to (nearly) zero once again. See Photo 11. Looking at the fuse chart for the interior fuse panel found three suspects listed. See Photo 12.
With the amplifier disconnected (still shown as connected in Photo 14), the amperage dropped instantly. The cause of this draw was that the amplifier was not going to sleep. A new amplifier fixed this vehicle. Let’s try another one. This is a 2005 Ranger 3.0L. At first, battery draw was 0.34 amps. See Photo 15. After only a few minutes, the draw dropped to the guilty item’s signature draw of 0.14 amps. See Photo 16.
The charts show that fuse to power the “Smart Junction Box” (SJB), which is the interior fuse panel. An SJB is not only a fuse panel, it is also a GEM module (BCM) combined into one unit. This 50A fuse may power a laundry list of items, and the underhood chart is not much help this time since it only says the SJB. So, it’s off to the power distribution charts to see what is powered by that fuse.
The removal and installation of the SJB’s fuse will awaken the supposedly sleeping module. So, the flasher fuse and the amplifier fuses were pulled. The draw remained. Pulling fuse 11 for the SJB’s logic circuitry dropped the ammeter to zero.
|
Getting a vehicle ready for a draw test involves a tad bit more than just hooking up an ammeter. With today’s vehicles, various modules (and lights) are awakened by simply operating a door handle. Since the awakening of modules (and lights) will suddenly cause an expected electrical draw, how are you going to access the inside of the vehicle after you determine there is an unwanted draw in the passenger area? Opening a car door at that point will bury the draw test results in a flood of amperage flow to other circuits. Before beginning a parasitic draw test, remove the key from the ignition and open all doors including the back hatch if equipped. Then, defeat the door ajar switches. For many modern vehicles, such as this 2005 Ford Explorer, this is done simply by using a screwdriver to artificially close the latches. See Photo 1.
For others, defeating the door ajar switches may mean removal of the switches from the door jam or inserting something in the door jam that artificially depresses the switch. Don’t forget to do the same for hood switches on some vehicles as well. Removing the key and defeating all door switches with the doors open will give the body control modules the illusion that you have exited the vehicle, yet you will still have full access to the interior of the vehicle for later pinpoint testing.
Step 1: Using a pointed lead for one tip and a gator clamp for the other tip, connect the gator clip to the cable and dig the pointed end into the top of the battery post for future foot holding. Be sure the leads are properly connected to the DVOM and that the DVOM is set to the ammeter setting. See Photo 2.
Step 3: Lift the pointed probe over the battery cable’s eye, and back to the post outside of the eye. See Photo 4.
For some vehicles, it might be easier to use a jumper pack set up for supplemental power while hooking up the ammeter, especially for side post batteries. For others, this little bunny hop of the test lead may be faster. But the idea here is to maintain things like radio (especially security radios), clock settings, power window settings (rather important to do so on some makes and models), and aftermarket alarm systems to reduce the unwanted stress of having to deal with a customer screaming about lost settings.
some of that stuff out during testing anyway. But remember, we don’t know for sure if we have a draw yet. So at this point, let’s not make more work for ourselves… there is still a chance we’ll find no draw after all. It’s bad enough to lose some settings when we have to, it’s worse when we later find out we didn’t have to at all.
That’s a pretty hefty draw there. Is that a problem? Actually, it’s too soon to tell. Remember all that door ajar switch defeating we did a little bit ago? Why did we do that? There are some body modules on this vehicle that haven’t gone to “sleep” yet. On any given vehicle there can be a handful of modules like BCM (GEM), vehicle security, lighting control and so on that will stay awake for as long as 45 minutes after the last door handle, door switch or key-in-sense switch has been tripped. So, we need to wait about an hour before reading the ammeter. Leave the ammeter hooked up, just turn off the power switch on the ammeter and go do something else for an hour. We’ll come back to that later, just remember where we left off.
Fingerprints of a Suspect
What I mean by a fingerprint is that different items have a signature amount of amperage that they will draw. For example, you might measure a parasitic draw of 0.15 amps at the battery. Everything that is wired hot at all times is suspect of a draw, but there might only be one item on the vehicle that will draw that exact signature 0.15 amps and also wired hot at all times. In theory, if there were a published spec you could look at of what each item draws, you could probably go straight to it off of that. But as it is, you have to hunt for it… but at least you know that you are hunting for a 0.15-amp draw. A test light hides 
that fingerprint from you. With a test light, what is a 0.34-amp brightness? Or a 0.25-amp brightness? How bright is “a little bright”? Have you ever had a draw go away after you’re getting close to it during testing?
Let’s Get Hands-On
hood fuse panel (panel number 1), shows fuse number 1 (1.1) to supply power for fuses 1, 2, 3 and 5 in the interior fuse panel (panel number 2).
The draw was proven to be in the direction of the audio unit (radio), amplifier or the DVD player (if equipped). The DVD player was quickly eliminated from the suspects list, due to the fact that this vehicle didn’t have one. The amplifier is behind the trim panel to the right of the cargo area. Not hard to get to, but the radio slides out of these easier. So, the radio was removed and unplugged to see if the draw went away. See Photo 13.
With the radio unplugged, the ammeter was inspected again for the results. The draw was still there. Only one suspect module left now. Time to go prove it.
Pulling underhood fuses found that the draw disappeared when fuse 5 (50A) was removed. See Photo 17.
A quick look shows that fuses 17, 11 and 12 in the SJB are what that fuse powers. Fuse 17 is for the flasher, 11 is a power supply for the SJB’s logic circuitry and fuse 12 is for the subwoofer amplifier. The SJB was accessed by removing the passenger side kick panel. See Photo 18.
For this model, the SJB had to be programmed. Using the IDS, the configuration data was removed from the old module and loaded into the new module after its installation and the current draw problem was solved. I hope that you enjoyed the information, and have the opportunity to profit from it soon.ENGINE CODES-VOLKSWAGON AUDI CARS TRUCKS SPECIFIC-HOUSTON,TX
January 23rd, 2008From model year 1996, vehicles manufactured for the North American market are equipped with a Government required diagnostic sysnem known as On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II). This system monitors operation and function of all engine management system activity and automatic transmission operation to insure compliance with specified emission levels.
Vehicle emission levels are constantly monitored by the OBD II system and malfunctions are recognized and recorded. A Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) in the instrument cluster alerts the driver to the fault and the need to have the system checked for fault codes. These codes follow a standard format and are known as Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
DTCs are assigned two codes. The first code is a numerical code assigned by the factory. The second code is referred to as a P-code and follows a structure required by law and defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). This standard uses a letter to designate the system and four numbers to further identify and detail the malfunction as listed below.
This is about a 35 page table. You may want to search for the DTC you need using your browser’s “find” feature. (Often this is under the ‘edit’ menu / ‘find’, in Internet Explorer, also use Ctrl+F).
First digit structure is as follows:
- Pxxxx for powertrain
- Bxxxx for body
- Cxxxx for chassis
- Uxxxx for future systems
Second digit structure is:
- P0xxx Government required codes
- P1xxx Manufacturer codes for additional emission system function; not required but reported to the government
Third digit structure is:
- Px1xx measurement of air and fuel
- Px2xx measurement of air and fuel
- Px3xx ignition system
- Px4xx additional emission control
- Px5xx speed and idle regulation
- Px6xx computer and output signals
- Px7xx transmission
- Px8xx transmission
- Px9xx control modules, input and output signals
The fourth and fifth digits designate the individual components and systems.
VW Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and data can be retrieved with VW/Audi Factory Scan Tools such as the VAG 1551, VAG 1552, or the new diagnostic computer VAS 5051 through a Data Link Connector (DLC). For location of the data link connector, see Maintenance section. Several aftermarket scan tools and computer programs are also capable of retrieving this information in this factory mode. The factory mode also allows the scan tool to be used for other system diagnostic functions and information retrieval.
Some DTC information can also be retrieved in a generic mode. The generic mode is not as complete as the factory mode, but allows commercially available scan tools to be used simply to read DTCs. Generic scan tool mode does not have the capability to retrieve the detailed information of a manufacturer-specific scan tool.
NOTE -
The following table contains a list of available scan tool codes for all Volkswagen and Audi vehicles available at the time of publication. Not all of the codes apply to the vehicles covered by this manual.
DTC
P-code
Description
16394
P0010
-A- Camshaft Pos. Actuator Circ. Bank 1 Malfunction
16395
P0020
-A- Camshaft Pos. Actuator Circ. Bank 2 Malfunction
16449
P0065
Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance
16450
P0066
Air Assisted Injector Control Low Input/Short to ground
16451
P0067
Air Assisted Injector Control Input/Short to B+
16485
P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Range/Performance
16486
P0102
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input
16487
P0103
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ High Input
16489
P0105
Manifold Abs.Pressure or Bar.Pressure Voltage supply
16490
P0106
Manifold Abs.Pressure or Bar.Pressure Range/Performance
16491
P0107
Manifold Abs.Pressure or Bar.Pressure Low Input
16492
P0108
Manifold Abs.Pressure or Bar.Pressure High Input
16496
P0112
Intake Air Temp.Circ Low Input
16497
P0113
Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
16500
P0116
Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Range/Performance
16501
P0117
Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Low Input
16502
P0118
Engine Coolant Temp.Circ High Input
16504
P0120
Throttle/Pedal Pos.Sensor A Circ Malfunction
16505
P0121
Throttle/Pedal Pos.Sensor A Circ Range/Performance
16506
P0122
Throttle/Pedal Pos.Sensor A Circ Low Input
16507
P0123
Throttle/Pedal Pos.Sensor A Circ High Input
16509
P0125
Insufficient Coolant Temp.for Closed Loop Fuel Control
16512
P0128
Coolant Thermostat/Valve Temperature below control range
16514
P0130
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Malfunction
16515
P0131
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Low Voltage
16516
P0132
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 High Voltage
16517
P0133
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Slow Response
16518
P0134
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 No Activity Detected
16519
P0135
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Malfunction
16520
P0136
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Malfunction
16521
P0137
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Low Voltage
16522
P0138
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 High Voltage
16523
P0139
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Slow Response
16524
P0140
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 No Activity Detected
16525
P0141
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Malfunction
16534
P0150
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Malfunction
16535
P0151
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Low Voltage
16536
P0152
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 High Voltage
16537
P0153
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Slow Response
16538
P0154
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 No Activity Detected
16539
P0155
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Malfunction
16540
P0156
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Malfunction
16541
P0157
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Low Voltage
16542
P0158
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 High Voltage
16543
P0159
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Slow Response
16544
P0160
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 No Activity Detected
16545
P0161
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Malfunction
16554
P0170
Fuel Trim,Bank1 Malfunction
16555
P0171
Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean
16556
P0172
Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Rich
16557
P0173
Fuel Trim,Bank2 Malfunction
16558
P0174
Fuel Trim,Bank2 System too Lean
16559
P0175
Fuel Trim,Bank2 System too Rich
16566
P0182
Fuel temperature sender-G81 Short to ground
16567
P0183
Fuel temperature sender-G81 Interruption/Short to B+
16581
P0197
Engine Oil Temperature Circuit Low Input
16582
P0198
Engine Oil Temperature Circuit High Input
16585
P0201
Cyl.1, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16586
P0202
Cyl.2, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16587
P0203
Cyl.3, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16588
P0204
Cyl.4, Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16589
P0205
Cyl.5 Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16590
P0206
Cyl.6 Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16591
P0207
Cyl.7 Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16592
P0208
Cyl.8 Injector Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16599
P0215
Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Malfunction
16600
P0216
Injector/Injection Timing Control Malfunction
16603
P0219
Engine Overspeed Condition
16605
P0221
Throttle Pos. Sensor -B- Circuit Range/Performance
16606
P0222
Throttle Pos. Sensor -B- Circuit Low Input
16607
P0223
Throttle Pos. Sensor -B- Circuit High Input
16609
P0225
Throttle Pos. Sensor -C- Circuit Voltage supply
16610
P0226
Throttle Pos. Sensor -C- Circuit Range/Performance
16611
P0227
Throttle Pos. Sensor -C- Circuit Low Input
16612
P0228
Throttle Pos. Sensor -C- Circuit Hight Input
16614
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Fault in electrical circuit
16618
P0234
Turbocharger Overboost Condition Control limit exceeded
16619
P0235
Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ Control limit not reached
16620
P0236
Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ Range/Performance
16621
P0237
Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ Low Input
16622
P0238
Turbocharger Boost Sensor (A) Circ High Input
16627
P0243
Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Open/Short Circuit to Ground
16629
P0245
Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) Low Input/Short to ground
16630
P0246
Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid (A) High Input/Short to B+
16636
P0252
Injection Pump Metering Control (A) Range/Performance
16645
P0261
Cyl.1 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16646
P0262
Cyl.1 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16648
P0264
Cyl.2 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16649
P0265
Cyl.2 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16651
P0267
Cyl.3 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16652
P0268
Cyl.3 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16654
P0270
Cyl.4 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16655
P0271
Cyl.4 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16657
P0273
Cyl.5 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16658
P0274
Cyl.5 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16660
P0276
Cyl.6 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16661
P0277
Cyl.6 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16663
P0279
Cyl.7 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16664
P0280
Cyl.7 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16666
P0282
Cyl.8 Injector Circuit Low Input/Short to ground
16667
P0283
Cyl.8 Injector Circuit High Input/Short to B+
16684
P0300
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16685
P0301
Cyl.1 Misfire Detected
16686
P0302
Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
16687
P0303
Cyl.3 Misfire Detected
16688
P0304
Cyl.4 Misfire Detected
16689
P0305
Cyl.5 Misfire Detected
16690
P0306
Cyl.6 Misfire Detected
16691
P0307
Cyl.7 Misfire Detected
16692
P0308
Cyl.8 Misfire Detected
16697
P0313
Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level
16698
P0314
Single Cylinder Misfire
16705
P0321
Ign./Distributor Eng.Speed Inp.Circ Range/Performance
16706
P0322
Ign./Distributor Eng.Speed Inp.Circ No Signal
16709
P0325
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Electrical Fault in Circuit
16710
P0326
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance
16711
P0327
Knock Sensor 1 Circ Low Input
16712
P0328
Knock Sensor 1 Circ High Input
16716
P0332
Knock Sensor 2 Circ Low Input
16717
P0333
Knock Sensor 2 Circ High Input
16719
P0335
Crankshaft Pos. Sensor (A) Circ Malfunction
16720
P0336
Crankshaft Pos. Sensor (A) Circ Range/Performance/Missing tooth
16721
P0337
Crankshaft Pos.Sensor (A) Circ Low Input
16724
P0340
Camshaft Pos. Sensor (A) Circ Incorrect allocation
16725
P0341
Camshaft Pos.Sensor Circ Range/Performance
16726
P0342
Camshaft Pos.Sensor Circ Low Input
16727
P0343
Camshaft Pos.Sensor Circ High Input
16735
P0351
Ignition Coil (A) Cyl.1 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16736
P0352
Ignition Coil (B) Cyl.2 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16737
P0353
Ignition Coil (C) Cyl.3 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16738
P0354
Ignition Coil (D) Cyl.4 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16739
P0355
Ignition Coil (E) Cyl.5 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16740
P0356
Ignition Coil (F) Cyl.6 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16741
P0357
Ignition Coil (G) Cyl.7 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16742
P0358
Ignition Coil (H) Cyl.8 Prim./Sec. Circ Malfunction
16764
P0380
Glow Plug/Heater Circuit (A) Electrical Fault in Circuit
16784
P0400
Exhaust Gas Recirc.Flow Malfunction
16785
P0401
Exhaust Gas Recirc.Flow Insufficient Detected
16786
P0402
Exhaust Gas Recirc.Flow Excessive Detected
16787
P0403
Exhaust Gas Recirc. Contr. Circ Malfunction
16788
P0404
Exhaust Gas Recirc. Contr. Circ Range/Performance
16789
P0405
Exhaust Gas Recirc. Sensor (A) Circ Low Input
16790
P0406
Exhaust Gas Recirc. Sensor (A) Circ High Input
16791
P0407
Exhaust Gas Recirc. Sensor (B) Circ Low Input
16792
P0408
Exhaust Gas Recirc. Sensor (B) Circ High Input
16794
P0410
Sec.Air Inj.Sys Malfunction
16795
P0411
Sec.Air Inj.Sys. Incorrect Flow Detected
16796
P0412
Sec.Air Inj.Sys.Switching Valve A Circ Malfunction
16802
P0418
Sec. Air Inj. Sys. Relay (A) Contr. Circ Malfunction
16804
P0420
Catalyst System,Bank1 Efficiency Below Threshold
16806
P0422
Main Catalyst,Bank1 Below Threshold
16811
P0427
Catalyst Temperature Sensor, Bank 1 Low Input/Short to ground
16812
P0428
Catalyst Temperature Sensor, Bank 1 High Input/Open/Short Circuit to B+
16816
P0432
Main Catalyst,Bank2 Efficiency Below Threshold
16820
P0436
Catalyst Temperature Sensor, Bank 2 Range/Performance
16821
P0437
Catalyst Temperature Sensor, Bank 2 Low Input/Short to ground
16822
P0438
Catalyst Temperature Sensor, Bank 2 High Input/Open/Short Circuit to B+
16824
P0440
EVAP Emission Contr.Sys. Malfunction
16825
P0441
EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Incorrect Purge Flow
16826
P0442
EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.(Small Leak) Leak Detected
16827
P0443
EVAP Emiss. Contr. Sys. Purge Valve Circ Electrical Fault in Circuit
16836
P0452
EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Press.Sensor Low Input
16837
P0453
EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.Press.Sensor High Input
16839
P0455
EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.(Gross Leak) Leak Detected
16845
P0461
Fuel Level Sensor Circ Range/Performance
16846
P0462
Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
16847
P0463
Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
16885
P0501
Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
16887
P0503
Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High Input
16889
P0505
Idle Control System Malfunction
16890
P0506
Idle Control System RPM Lower than Expected
16891
P0507
Idle Control System Higher than Expected
16894
P0510
Closed Throttle Pos.Switch Malfunction
16915
P0531
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
16916
P0532
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
16917
P0533
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
16935
P0551
Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
16944
P0560
System Voltage Malfunction
16946
P0562
System Voltage Low Voltage
16947
P0563
System Voltage High Voltage
16952
P0568
Cruise Control Set Signal Incorrect Signal
16955
P0571
Cruise/Brake Switch (A) Circ Malfunction
16984
P0600
Serial Comm. Link (Data Bus) Message Missing
16985
P0601
Internal Contr.Module Memory Check Sum Error
16986
P0602
Control Module Programming Error/Malfunction
16987
P0603
Internal Contr.Module (KAM) Error
16988
P0604
Internal Contr.Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
16989
P0605
Internal Contr.Module ROM Test Error
16990
P0606
ECM/PCM Processor
17026
P0642
Knock Control Control Module Malfunction
17029
P0645
A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
17034
P0650
MIL Control Circuit Electrical Fault in Circuit
17038
P0654
Engine RPM Output Circuit Electrical Fault in Circuit
17040
P0656
Fuel Level Output Circuit Electrical Fault in Circuit
17084
P0700
Transm.Contr.System Malfunction
17086
P0702
Transm.Contr.System Electrical
17087
P0703
Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circ Malfunction
17089
P0705
Transm.Range Sensor Circ.(PRNDL Inp.) Malfunction
17090
P0706
Transm.Range Sensor Circ Range/Performance
17091
P0707
Transm.Range Sensor Circ Low Input
17092
P0708
Transm.Range Sensor Circ High Input
17094
P0710
Transm.Fluid Temp.Sensor Circ. Malfunction
17095
P0711
Transm.Fluid Temp.Sensor Circ. Range/Performance
17096
P0712
Transm.Fluid Temp.Sensor Circ. Low Input
17097
P0713
Transm.Fluid Temp.Sensor Circ. High Input
17099
P0715
Input Turbine/Speed Sensor Circ. Malfunction
17100
P0716
Input Turbine/Speed Sensor Circ. Range/Performance
17101
P0717
Input Turbine/Speed Sensor Circ. No Signal
17105
P0721
Output Speed Sensor Circ Range/Performance
17106
P0722
Output Speed Sensor Circ No Signal
17109
P0725
Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Malfunction
17110
P0726
Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Range/Performance
17111
P0727
Engine Speed Inp.Circ. No Signal
17114
P0730
Gear Incorrect Ratio
17115
P0731
Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
17116
P0732
Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
17117
P0733
Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
17118
P0734
Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
17119
P0735
Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
17124
P0740
Torque Converter Clutch Circ Malfunction
17125
P0741
Torque Converter Clutch Circ Performance or Stuck Off
17132
P0748
Pressure Contr.Solenoid Electrical
17134
P0750
Shift Solenoid A malfunction
17135
P0751
Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
17136
P0752
Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
17137
P0753
Shift Solenoid A Electrical
17140
P0756
Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
17141
P0757
Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
17142
P0758
Shift Solenoid B Electrical
17145
P0761
Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off
17146
P0762
Shift Solenoid C Stuck On
17147
P0763
Shift Solenoid C Electrical
17152
P0768
Shift Solenoid D Electrical
17157
P0773
Shift Solenoid E Electrical
17174
P0790
Normal/Performance Switch Circ Malfunction
17509
P1101
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1Voltage too Low/Air Leak
17510
P1102
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Short to B+
17511
P1103
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Output too Low
17512
P1104
Bank1-Sensor2 Voltage too Low/Air Leak
17513
P1105
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Short to B+
17514
P1106
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Voltage too Low/Air Leak
17515
P1107
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Short to B+
17516
P1108
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Output too Low
17517
P1109
O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Voltage too Low/Air Leak
17518
P1110
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Short to B+
17519
P1111
O2 Control (Bank 1) System too lean
17520
P1112
O2 Control (Bank 1) System too rich
17521
P1113
Bank1-Sensor1 Internal Resistance too High
17522
P1114
Bank1-Sensor2 Internal Resistant too High
17523
P1115
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Short to Ground
17524
P1116
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Open
17525
P1117
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Short to Ground
17526
P1118
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Open
17527
P1119
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Short to Ground
17528
P1120
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Open
17529
P1121
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Short to Ground
17530
P1122
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Open
17531
P1123
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank1 System too Rich
17532
P1124
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank1 System too Lean
17533
P1125
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank2 System too Rich
17534
P1126
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Air.,Bank2 System too Lean
17535
P1127
Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Rich
17536
P1128
Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Lean
17537
P1129
Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank2 System too Rich
17538
P1130
Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank2 System too Lean
17539
P1131
Bank2-Sensor1 Internal Rsistance too High
17540
P1132
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1+2-Sensor1 Short to B+
17541
P1133
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1+2-Sensor1 Electrical Malfunction
17542
P1134
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1+2-Sensor2 Short to B+
17543
P1135
O2 Sensor Heating Circ.,Bank1+2-Sensor2 Electrical Malfunction
17544
P1136
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank1 System too Lean
17545
P1137
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank1 System too Rich
17546
P1138
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank2 System too Lean
17547
P1139
Long Term Fuel Trim Add.Fuel,Bank2 System too Rich
17548
P1140
Bank2-Sensor2 Internal Resistance too High
17549
P1141
Load Calculation Cross Check Range/Performance
17550
P1142
Load Calculation Cross Check Lower Limit Exceeded
17551
P1143
Load Calculation Cross Check Upper Limit Exceeded
17552
P1144
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Open/Short to Ground
17553
P1145
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Short to B+
17554
P1146
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Supply Malfunction
17555
P1147
O2 Control (Bank 2) System too lean
17556
P1148
O2 Control (Bank 2) System too rich
17557
P1149
O2 Control (Bank 1) Out of range
17558
P1150
O2 Control (Bank 2) Out of range
17559
P1151
Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 1 Leanness Lower Limit Exceeded
17560
P1152
Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Leanness Lower Limit Exceeded
17562
P1154
Manifold Switch Over Malfunction
17563
P1155
Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor Circ. Short to B+
17564
P1156
Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor Circ. Open/Short to Ground
17565
P1157
Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor Circ. Power Supply Malfunction
17566
P1158
Manifold Abs.Pressure Sensor Circ. Range/Performance
17568
P1160
Manifold Temp.Sensor Circ. Short to Ground
17569
P1161
Manifold Temp.Sensor Circ. Open/Short to B+
17570
P1162
Fuel Temp.Sensor Circ. Short to Ground
17571
P1163
Fuel Temp.Sensor Circ. Open/Short to B+
17572
P1164
Fuel Temperature Sensor Range/Performance/Incorrect Signal
17573
P1165
Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 1 Rich Limit Exceeded
17574
P1166
Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Rich Limit Exceeded
17579
P1171
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17580
P1172
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too Low
17581
P1173
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too High
17582
P1174
Fuel Trim, Bank 1 Different injection times
17584
P1176
O2 Correction Behind Catalyst,B1 Limit Attained
17585
P1177
O2 Correction Behind Catalyst,B2 Limit Attained
17586
P1178
Linear 02 Sensor / Pump Current Open Circuit
17587
P1179
Linear 02 Sensor / Pump Current Short to ground
17588
P1180
Linear 02 Sensor / Pump Current Short to B+
17589
P1181
Linear 02 Sensor / Reference Voltage Open Circuit
17590
P1182
Linear 02 Sensor / Reference Voltage Short to ground
17591
P1183
Linear 02 Sensor / Reference Voltage Short to B+
17592
P1184
Linear 02 Sensor / Common Ground Wire Open Circuit
17593
P1185
Linear 02 Sensor / Common Ground Wire Short to ground
17594
P1186
Linear 02 Sensor / Common Ground Wire Short to B+
17595
P1187
Linear 02 Sensor / Compens. Resistor Open Circuit
17596
P1188
Linear 02 Sensor / Compens. Resistor Short to ground
17597
P1189
Linear 02 Sensor / Compens. Resistor Short to B+
17598
P1190
Linear 02 Sensor / Reference Voltage Incorrect Signal
17604
P1196
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Electrical Malfunction
17605
P1197
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor1 Electrical Malfunction
17606
P1198
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Electrical Malfunction
17607
P1199
O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank2-Sensor2 Electrical Malfunction
17609
P1201
Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17610
P1202
Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17611
P1203
Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17612
P1204
Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17613
P1205
Cyl.5-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17614
P1206
Cyl.6-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17615
P1207
Cyl.7-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17616
P1208
Cyl.8-Fuel Inj.Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17617
P1209
Intake valves for cylinder shut-off Short circuit to ground
17618
P1210
Intake valves for cylinder shut-off Short to B+
17619
P1211
Intake valves for cylinder shut-off Open circuit
17621
P1213
Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17622
P1214
Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17623
P1215
Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17624
P1216
Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17625
P1217
Cyl.5-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17626
P1218
Cyl.6-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17627
P1219
Cyl.7-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17628
P1220
Cyl.8-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to B+
17629
P1221
Cylinder shut-off exhaust valves Short circuit to ground
17630
P1222
Cylinder shut-off exhaust valves Short to B+
17631
P1223
Cylinder shut-off exhaust valves Open circuit
17633
P1225
Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17634
P1226
Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17635
P1227
Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17636
P1228
Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17637
P1229
Cyl.5-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17638
P1230
Cyl.6-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17639
P1231
Cyl.7-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17640
P1232
Cyl.8-Fuel Inj.Circ. Short to Ground
17645
P1237
Cyl.1-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17646
P1238
Cyl.2-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17647
P1239
Cyl.3-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17648
P1240
Cyl.4-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17649
P1241
Cyl.5-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17650
P1242
Cyl.6-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17651
P1243
Cyl.7-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17652
P1244
Cyl.8-Fuel Inj.Circ. Open Circ.
17653
P1245
Needle Lift Sensor Circ. Short to Ground
17654
P1246
Needle Lift Sensor Circ. Range/Performance
17655
P1247
Needle Lift Sensor Circ. Open/Short to B+
17656
P1248
Injection Start Control Deviation
17657
P1249
Fuel consumption signal Electrical Fault in Circuit
17658
P1250
Fuel Level Too Low
17659
P1251
Start of Injection Solenoid Circ Short to B+
17660
P1252
Start of Injection Solenoid Circ Open/Short to Ground
17661
P1253
Fuel consumption signal Short to ground
17662
P1254
Fuel consumption signal Short to B+
17663
P1255
Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Short to Ground
17664
P1256
Engine Coolant Temp.Circ Open/Short to B+
17665
P1257
Engine Coolant System Valve Open
17666
P1258
Engine Coolant System Valve Short to B+
17667
P1259
Engine Coolant System Valve Short to Ground
17688
P1280
Fuel Inj.Air Contr.Valve Circ. Flow too Low
17691
P1283
Fuel Inj.Air Contr.Valve Circ. Electrical Malfunction
17692
P1284
Fuel Inj.Air Contr.Valve Circ. Open
17693
P1285
Fuel Inj.Air Contr.Valve Circ. Short to Ground
17694
P1286
Fuel Inj.Air Contr.Valve Circ. Short to B+
17695
P1287
Turbocharger bypass valve open
17696
P1288
Turbocharger bypass valve short to B+
17697
P1289
Turbocharger bypass valve short to ground
17704
P1296
Cooling system malfunction
17705
P1297
Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose
17708
P1300
Misfire detected Reason: Fuel level too low
17721
P1319
Knock Sensor 1 Circ. Short to Ground
17728
P1320
Knock Sensor 2 Circ. Short to Ground
17729
P1321
Knock Sensor 3 Circ. Low Input
17730
P1322
Knock Sensor 3 Circ. High Input
17731
P1323
Knock Sensor 4 Circ. Low Input
17732
P1324
Knock Sensor 4 Circ. High Input
17733
P1325
Cyl.1-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17734
P1326
Cyl.2-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17735
P1327
Cyl.3-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17736
P1328
Cyl.4-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17737
P1329
Cyl.5-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17738
P1330
Cyl.6-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17739
P1331
Cyl.7-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17740
P1332
Cyl.8-Knock Contr. Limit Attained
17743
P1335
Engine Torque Monitoring 2 Control Limint Exceeded
17744
P1336
Engine Torque Monitoring Adaptation at limit
17745
P1337
Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank1 Short to Ground
17746
P1338
Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank1 Open Circ./Short to B+
17747
P1339
Crankshaft Pos./Engine Speed Sensor Cross Connected
17748
P1340
Crankshaft-/Camshaft Pos.Sens.Signals Out of Sequence
17749
P1341
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 1 Short to Ground
17750
P1342
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 1 Short to B+
17751
P1343
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 2 Short to Ground
17752
P1344
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 2 Short to B+
17753
P1345
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 3 Short to Ground
17754
P1346
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 3 Short to B+
17755
P1347
Bank2,Crankshaft-/Camshaft os.Sens.Sign. Out of Sequence
17756
P1348
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 1 Open Circuit
17757
P1349
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 2 Open Circuit
17758
P1350
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 3 Open Circuit
17762
P1354
Modulation Piston Displ.Sensor Circ. Malfunction
17763
P1355
Cyl. 1, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17764
P1356
Cyl. 1, ignition circuit Short to B+
17765
P1357
Cyl. 1, ignition circuit Short to ground
17766
P1358
Cyl. 2, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17767
P1359
Cyl. 2, ignition circuit Short Circuit to B+
17768
P1360
Cyl. 2, ignition circuit Short Circuit to Ground
17769
P1361
Cyl. 3, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17770
P1362
Cyl. 3, ignition circuit Short Circuit to B+
17771
P1363
Cyl. 3, ignition circuit Short Circuit to ground
17772
P1364
Cyl. 4 ignition circuit Open Circuit
17773
P1365
Cyl. 4 ignition circuit Short circuit to B+
17774
P1366
Cyl. 4 ignition circuit Short circuit to ground
17775
P1367
Cyl. 5, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17776
P1368
Cyl. 5, ignition circuit Short Circuit to B+
17777
P1369
Cyl. 5, ignition circuit short to ground
17778
P1370
Cyl. 6, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17779
P1371
Cyl. 6, ignition circuit Short Circuit to B+
17780
P1372
Cyl. 6, ignition circuit short to ground
17781
P1373
Cyl. 7, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17782
P1374
Cyl. 7, ignition circuit Short Circuit to B+
17783
P1375
Cyl. 7, ignition circuit short to ground
17784
P1376
Cyl. 8, ignition circuit Open Circuit
17785
P1377
Cyl. 8, ignition circuit Short Circuit to B+
17786
P1378
Cyl. 8, ignition circuit short to ground
17794
P1386
Internal Control Module Knock Control Circ.Error
17795
P1387
Internal Contr. Module altitude sensor error
17796
P1388
Internal Contr. Module drive by wire error
17799
P1391
Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank2 Short to Ground
17800
P1392
Camshaft Pos.Sensor,Bank2 Open Circ./Short to B+
17801
P1393
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 1 Electrical Malfunction
17802
P1394
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 2 Electrical Malfunction
17803
P1395
Ignition Coil Power Output Stage 3 Electrical Malfunction
17804
P1396
Engine Speed Sensor Missing Tooth
17805
P1397
Engine speed wheel Adaptation limit reached
17806
P1398
Engine RPM signal, TD Short to ground
17807
P1399
Engine RPM signal, TD Short Circuit to