Are my tires properly inflated? Houston, TX

Are my tires properly inflated? Houston, TX The correct auto-car tire pressure for a vehicle is determined by the size and weight of the automotive vehicle, the type of auto-car tires it uses, load hauled, and the type of automotive driving the vehicle is intended for. The auto vehicle manufacturer places a tire inflation placard in each vehicle that gives the proper car tire inflation pressures for that auto vehicle. This placard is located on the inside of the glove box door, inside the fuel-filler door, or on the car driver?s side doorpost (depending upon manufacturer). Most auto manufacturers also list tire inflation levels in the owner?s manual.

How long should wiper blades last? Houston, TX

How long should wiper blades last? Houston, TX For auto vehicles that are parked inside, car care experts recommend that the auto-car wiper blades be replaced at least once a year or when the wiper blades start streaking – which ever comes first. On auto vehicles kept outside or in areas where the auto-car wipers receive excessive use, changing the auto-car blades two or even three times a year is recommended for clear vision.

How often should I have my engine oil/filter changed? Houston, TX

How often should I have my engine oil/filter changed? Houston, TX According to automotive-car experts, regularly scheduled oil/filter changes are the single most important item for prolonging auto-car engine life. Most new auto vehicles have recommended oil/filter change intervals of 7,500 miles and some new auto vehicles have recommended oil change intervals of 11,000 to 15,000 miles under normal operating conditions, with ""normal"" operation described as the operation of the vehicle for at least 20 minutes at a medium speed, with a steady throttle and in a clean driving environment. Short hops to the store, stop-and-go rush hour driving, driving on dirt roads and inclement-weather operation are all considered severe operating conditions that can cause impurities to build up quickly in the oil, resulting in increased wear and tear on internal parts. That is why most auto-car owner's manuals and auto mechanics recommend changing the oil and filter every three months or 3,000 miles (whichever comes first) to assure that maximum engine lubrication occurs while a minimum of impurities are suspended in the oil. To find out what the recommended oil change frequency is for your auto vehicle, check your car owner's manual or talk with your automotive service professional.

How can I tell if my automotive / car engine coolant is OK? Houston,Tx

How can I tell if my automotive / car engine coolant is OK? Houston,Tx It is impossible to determine the condition of the auto-car coolant in the radiator just by looking at it. Coolant, a mixture of ethylene glycol and water, breaks down with age, picks up contaminants that cause sludge, and becomes acidic. When this happens, it can cause the auto-car to corrode within the radiator and cooling passages of the engine. To determine its condition, coolant must be checked with coolant test strips that measure PH balance. The auto-car coolant is an environmentally hazardous substance. It pollutes the water table and is poisonous to people and animals and therefore must be disposed of as a hazardous waste. Your auto-car mechanic has special tools and procedures for testing and changing coolant.

Why is heat coming out of my air conditioner? Houston, TX

Why is heat coming out of my air conditioner? Houston, TX If your auto-car air conditioning system blowing hot air instead of cool, the auto-car refrigerant gas may have leaked out, you may have a clogged condenser, or the air conditioner's blend door may be stuck. Whatever the cause of the problem, the auto-car air conditioning system needs immediate service. Turn the system off. You can cool the auto-car vehicle interior by putting the ventilation control in the "vent" position and/or opening the windows.

What can I do if my car overheats? Houston, TX

What can I do if my car overheats? Houston, TX If you are driving at normal highway speed and the auto vehicle starts to overheat, turn off the air conditioner, turn on the heater and immediately pull over to the shoulder. Odds are if the vehicle starts to overheat at highway speed, there is a problem in the cooling system such as low coolant, a clogged radiator or a broken drive belt or burst hose. Once at the shoulder, shut off the auto-car engine, open the hood and let the car engine cool down – 20 minutes minimum. Once any overboiling stops and the car's engine has cooled, look for obvious signs of trouble. DO NOT attempt to open the auto-car radiator cap unless the car engine is off and the top of the radiator is cold. If there is no noticeable problem such as a broken drive belt or burst hose, you can then add a coolant/water mixture to the radiator or overflow reservoir, start the auto vehicle and drive slowly to a service facility.

How often should my car get a tune-up? Houston, TX

How often should my car get a tune-up? Houston, TX The term “tune-up” actually applies only to older cars without electronic ignition (before 1981). On these auto-car vehicles a tune-up would generally be required every 15,000 – 20,000 miles and consisted of replacing the spark plugs, ignition contact points, rotor and distributor cap and adjusting the ignition timing as well as the carburetor. On modern auto-car vehicles equipped with electronic ignition, fuel injection and computer controls, the term “engine performance maintenance” is a more accurate term. A “tune-up” for these newer vehicles is an orderly process of inspection, computer diagnosis, testing and adjustment to maintain peak auto engine performance, maximum operating efficiency and low car exhaust emissions. During this process, spark plugs, plug wires, sensors, and modules may be replaced. The frequency at which a newer auto-car vehicle needs a tune-up is dependent more upon driving conditions than mileage and recommended tune-up frequencies vary between 30,000 – 100,000 miles, depending on the manufacturer. To learn how often your auto-car vehicle needs a tune-up, check your owner’s manual or speak with your local automotive service provider.

Why are my brakes making noise? Houston, TX

Why are my brakes making noise? Houston, TX If you hear a grinding or squealing sound when the pedal is applied, you probably need new brake shoes or pads. Auto-car brakes shouldn’t make any noise as they operate. Even if the actual problem turns out to be something minor, the only safe assumption is this one: noisy car brakes are unsafe brakes. Postponing service is unsafe and could raise the cost of the auto repairs later. If your car brakes are making noise, get them inspected or serviced right away.

Does my transmission ever need service? Houston,TX

Does my transmission ever need service? Houston,TX Most auto-car care experts advise having an automatic transmission’s fluid and filter changed every two years or 24,000 miles, to keep it in good working order. This is especially important if the auto vehicle is more than five years old. Many auto vehicles newer than five years old may need scheduled service less often and some new auto vehicles have transmissions that need no scheduled service for the life of the car. By-the-book service, however, may not be adequate if your vehicle is driven hard, tows a trailer, goes off-road or carries a camper. Under these conditions, the auto-car fluid and filter may need to be changed more often -- every 12 months or 12,000 miles --because dirt and moisture buildup in the fluid can cause internal damage. Heat buildup can also be a problem. The harder the auto-car transmission works, the hotter the fluid gets and the quicker the fluid breaks down. To find out the recommended service schedule for your auto-car vehicle’s transmission, check the owner’s manual or talk with your local automotive service provider. Manual transmissions generally need no regularly scheduled service, but may need service due to worn clutch and throw-out bearings and broken synchromesh gears. Check your owner’s manual for specific information on manual transmission service or talk with your local automotive service provider.

Techtips: Automotive / Car Repair Tips Getting the Most Out of Your Repair Shop Houston,Tx

Techtips: Automotive / Car Repair Tips Getting the Most Out of Your Repair Shop Houston,Tx Find out what to do when your auto-car is sick! Today's auto-cars, light trucks, and sport-utility auto vehicles are high-tech marvels with digital dashboards, oxygen sensors, electronic computers, unibody construction, and more. They run better, longer, and more efficiently than models of years past. But when it comes to auto-car repairs, some things stay the same. Whatever type of auto repair facility you patronize--dealership, service station, independent car garage, auto specialty shop, or a national auto franchise--good communications between customer and auto shop is vital. The following tips should help you along the way: Do your homework before taking your auto-car vehicle in for auto repairs or auto service. Today's auto technician must understand thousands of pages of technical text. Fortunately, your required reading is much less. Read the owner's manual to learn about the auto-car vehicle's systems and components. Follow the recommended service schedules. Keep a log of all auto repairs and auto service. When you think about it, you know your car better than anyone else. You drive it every day and know how it feels and sounds when everything is right. So don't ignore its warning signals. Use all of your senses to inspect your auto-car frequently. Check for: Unusual sounds, odors, drips, leaks, smoke, auto warning lights, gauge readings Changes in acceleration, auto engine performance, gas mileage, fluid levels. Worn tires, belts, hoses. Problems in handling, braking, steering, vibrations. Note when the problem occurs. Is it constant or periodic? When the auto vehicle is cold or after the auto engine has warmed up? At all speeds? Only under acceleration? During braking? When shifting? When did the problem first start? Professionally run auto repair establishments have always recognized the importance of communications in automotive repairs. Once you are at the auto repair establishment, communicate your findings. Be prepared to describe the symptoms. (In larger auto shops you'll probably speak with an auto service writer/service manager rather than with the technician directly.) Carry a written list of the symptoms that you can give to the auto technician or auto service manager. Resist the temptation to suggest a specific course of auto repair. Just as you would with your physician, tell where it hurts and how long it's been that way, but let the auto technician diagnose and recommend a remedy. Stay involved... Ask questions. Ask as many questions as you need to, to understand the problem. Don't be embarrassed to request lay definitions. Don't rush the auto service writer or the auto technician to make an on-the-spot diagnosis. Ask to be called and with a description of the problem, course of action, and costs before work begins. Before you leave, be sure you understand all shop policies regarding guarantees, and acceptable methods of payment. Leave a telephone number where you can be reached.

Techtips: Choosing the Automotive / Car Best Repair Shop Houston,Tx

Techtips: Choosing the Automotive / Car Best Repair Shop Houston,Tx Choosing the Right Repair Shop for Your Vehicle No matter what you drive--sports car, family sedan, pick-up, or mini-van, when you go in for repairs or service, you want the job done right. The following advice should take much of the guesswork out of finding a good repair establishment. I. Preliminaries Don't just drop your vehicle off at the nearest establishment and hope for the best. That's not choosing a shop, that's merely gambling. Read your owner's manual to become familiar with your vehicle and follow the manufacturer's suggested service schedule. Start shopping for a repair facility before you need one; you can make better decisions when you are not rushed or in a panic. Ask friends and associates for their recommendations. Even in this high-tech era, old-fashioned word-of-mouth reputation is still valuable. If possible, arrange for alternate transportation in advance so you will not feel forced to choose a facility solely on the basis of location. II. At the Shop Look for a neat, well-organized facility, with vehicles in the parking lot equal in value to your own and modern equipment in the service bays. Professionally run establishments will have a courteous, helpful staff. The service writer should be willing to answer all of your questions. Feel free to ask for the names of a few customers. Call them. All policies (guarantees, methods of payment, etc.) should be posted and/or explained to your satisfaction. Ask if the shop customarily handles your vehicle make and model. Some facilities specialize only in certain makes. Ask if the shop usually does your type of repair, especially if you need major work. Look for signs of professionalism in the customer service area: civic and community service awards, membership in the Better Business Bureau, AAA-Approved Auto Repair status, customer service awards. Look for evidence of qualified technicians, such as trade school diplomas, certificates of advanced course work, and ASE certifications--a national standard of technician competence. The backbone of any shop is the competence of the technicians. III. Follow-Up Keep good records; keep all paperwork. Reward good service with repeat business. It is mutually beneficial to you and the shop owner to establish a relationship. If the service was not all you expected, don't rush to another shop. Discuss the problem with the service manager or owner. Give the business a chance to resolve the problem. Reputable shops value customer feedback and will make a sincere effort to keep your business.

Techtips: Getting Your Automotive / Car Ready for Summer. Houston,Tx

Techtips: Getting Your Automotive / Car Ready for Summer. Houston,Tx Summer's heat, dust, and stop-and-go traffic will take their toll on your vehicle. Add the effects of last winter, and you could be poised for a breakdown. You can lessen the odds of mechanical failure through periodic maintenance...Your vehicle should last longer and command a higher resale price, too! Some of the following tips are easy for anyone to do; others require a skilled auto technician. Getting Started: The best planning guide is your owner's manual. Read it; and follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedules. Air Conditioning: A Marginally operating system will fail in hot weather. Have the system examined by a qualified technician. Cooling System: The greatest cause of summer breakdowns is overheating. The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.) DIYers, Never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro. Oil: Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual--more often (every 3,000 miles) if you make frequent short jaunts, extended trips with lots of luggage, or tow a trailer. Engine Performance: Replace other filters (air, fuel, PCV, etc.) as recommended--more often in dusty conditions. Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, smiling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good shop. Windshield Wipers: A dirty windshield causes eye fatigue and can pose a safety hazard. Replace worn blades and get plenty of windshield washer solvent. Tires: Have your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles. Check tire pressures once a month; let the tires "cool down" first. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition. Examine tires for tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. An alignment is warranted if there's uneven tread wear or if your vehicle pulls to one side. Brakes: Brakes should be inspected as recommended in your manual, or sooner if you notice pulsation's, grabbing, noises, or longer stopping distance. Minor brake problems should be corrected promptly. Battery: Batteries can fail any time of year. The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery. caps are removable, check the fluid level monthly. Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves. Lights: Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean dirt and insects from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag. Emergencies: Carry some basic tools--ask a technician for suggestions. Also include a first aid kit, flares, and a flashlight.

Automotive / Car Ignition Key Will Not Turn Houston,Tx

Automotive / Car Ignition Key Will Not Turn Houston,Tx 1. You may have engaged the anti-theft rod or steering wheel lock in the steering column. Generally this happens when you turn your car off with the wheels cut hard in either direction. You can generally remedy this problem by "jiggling" the steering wheel right and left while attempting to turn the key. 2. The key is bent or otherwise damaged. Take a good look at your key to insure that it is not bent, cracked, chiped, or damaged in any way. If it is, try starting the car with an alternate key. (You do have more than one key for your car right?) In a pinch, you may also be able to repair a slightly bent key by squeezing it flat in a vice. 3. The ignition lock cylinder is shot. Over time ignition locks can wear out. You will note a bad lock cylinder because the lock will be difficult to turn with any key and often will not turn at all. As a quick remedy, you can try a bit of penetrating oil (WD-40 or similar) inside the cylinder and on the key, but this is likely only a temporary solution. At some point you will need to replace the cylinder. (The sooner the better.)

Automotive / Car No Start and No Sound. Houston,Tx

Automotive / Car No Start and No Sound. Houston,Tx When your car won't start, and you hear no sounds, you are likely confronting a dead battery. A dead battery can be caused by a litany of things so we will take a quick look at what might be the cause, and also suggest some alternate causes if the problem does not lie in the battery. 1. Check the simple items. Check your headlight switch to insure you did not leave your automobile's headlights on overnight. Next, check any and all interior lights (including that back seat reading light the kids like to use.) If either of these have been left on you have probably found your culprit. If neither of these prove the root cause, once you get the car started again make sure to check for a bad trunk, under-hood, or glove box light that doesn't turn off properly. 2. Under the hood, take a good look at the battery while you're under the hood. If the terminals are "cruddy" or "dirty" (or loose) you may well have a bad connection. Also while you're under the hood, take a quick look at your alternator belt to insure it is in place, tight, and in good condition. Though a problem with the belt is much less likely the culprit, it never hurts to check. (Your alternator is responsible for constantly recharging your battery and if the belt is worn, damaged, or not securely in place, you battery may not be charging as it should.) 3. If you still have not rooted out the cause of your problem, you should "jump it" to get the car started again and check for additional problems. First, check the other lights that might be malfunctioning (trunk, glovebox, underhood). If none of these have caused the issue, and the problem recurs, you will need to have the charging system inspected. The cause could be anything from a bad solenoid, to a malfunctining alternator or voltage regulator. Check with your mechanic to determine the cause.

My automotive / car brake warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx

My automotive / car brake warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx If your auto backfires while starting (not while driving) usually one of a few things is the culprit. 1. Is it wet? Most commonly, this occurs in "damp" conditions and can be attributed to moisture in the distributor cap. The humidity in the air causes some condensation within the cap and interferes with the ability of the distributor to function properly. 2. Carbs and Fuel Injection. If your problem seems more general in nature and occurs other than in wet conditions, you likely have a problem with your fuel injection system or carbuerator. Depending on how your car is equipped (fuel injected or carbuerated) you will likely find your problem here. · My automotive / car brake warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx My automotive / car brake warning lights is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to release the parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains on when the brake is set as a reminder. If the brake warning light remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is amiss. In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on the parking brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with the brakes and a simple adjustment should fix the problem. If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes, or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there’s a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on. Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what’s wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed. Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause the vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake shoes or pads that have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be dried out and must be replaced. Brake Warning Light Circuit The brake system is divided into two hydraulic circuits. On most rear-wheel drive vehicles, it is divided so one circuit applies the front brakes and the other applies the rear brakes. On front-wheel drive cars and minivans, the system is usually split diagonally. One circuit works the right front and left rear brake, and the other works the left front and right rear brake. This is done for safety purposes so if one circuit loses all its brake fluid and fails, the vehicle will still have one remaining circuit to apply two wheel brakes. Usually located on the master cylinder or the brake lines exiting the master cylinder is a "pressure differential" switch. If either brake circuit develops a leak and loses its fluid, the difference in pressure when the brakes are applied will trip the differential switch causing the brake warning light to come on. Abs Warning Light On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes (ABS), a second warning light is provided to warn if a problem occurs within the ABS system. The ABS lamp comes on when the ignition is turned on for a bulb check, then goes out after the engine starts. If the ABS warning light remains on or comes on while driving, it indicates a fault has occurred in the ABS system. What happens next depends on the nature of the fault. On most applications, the ABS system disables itself if the ABS warning light comes on and remains on. This should have no effect on normal braking. Even so, ABS will NOT be available in an emergency situation or when braking on a wet or slick surface. CAUTION: If the brake warning light also comes on and remains on while the ABS warning light it on, it signals a serious problem. Your vehicle may not be safe to drive. The brakes and ABS system should be inspected immediately to determine the nature of the problem! If the ABS light comes on momentarily then goes out, the nature of the problem is usually minor and the ABS system usually remains fully operational. Some vehicle manufacturers call this kind of fault a "nonlatching" fault (meaning it isn’t serious enough to disable the ABS system). Regardless of the type of fault that occurred to trigger the ABS warning lamp, a special "code" is recorded in the ABS module’s memory to aid in diagnosing the problem. On some vehicles this code can be retrieved by putting the ABS system into a special diagnostic mode. The code is then flashed out through the ABS warning lamp. The code number refers to a diagnostic chart in a service manual that must be followed to pinpoint the faulty component. On other applications, a special "scan tool" must be plugged into the vehicle’s diagnostic connector to read out the fault code. Diagnosing ABS problems requires a fair amount of knowledge and expertise (as well as special equipment in many applications), so this job is best left to a competent professional.

Automotive / Car Starting and engine Backfiring. Houston,Tx

Automotive / Car Starting and engine Backfiring. Houston,Tx If your auto backfires while starting (not while driving) usually one of a few things is the culprit. 1. Is it wet? Most commonly, this occurs in "damp" conditions and can be attributed to moisture in the distributor cap. The humidity in the air causes some condensation within the cap and interferes with the ability of the distributor to function properly. 2. Carbs and Fuel Injection. If your problem seems more general in nature and occurs other than in wet conditions, you likely have a problem with your fuel injection system or carbuerator. Depending on how your car is equipped (fuel injected or carbuerated) you will likely find your problem here.

Automotive / Car: The Shakedown on Engine Vibration Issues, Underhood Service Houston,Tx

Automotive / Car: The Shakedown on Engine Vibration Issues, Underhood Service Houston,Tx Diagnosing and correcting tire and wheel imbalance can cure many of your customer’s complaints of vehicle vibration. But as you may be aware, there are times when you can balance the wheels and find that the vehicle still shakes. Lets take a look at some of the more common driveshaft and engine-related causes of vibration. If wheel or tire runout is within specifications and the vehicle has rear-wheel drive (RWD) or four-wheel drive (4WD), driveshaft vibration may be what’s causing the problem. Driveshaft vibration is rarely encountered in front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars and minivans because the halfshafts turn at the same speed as the wheels, which run at about a third of the speed of the driveshaft in most RWD and 4WD vehicles. So unless a halfshaft is bent or damaged, it’s unlikely that it would be out of balance enough to cause a noticeable vibration. FWD halfshafts also run smoother because the CV joints on the ends of the shafts do not create cyclic vibrations as the operating angle of the joints change. With U-joints, though, changing the operating angle of the joint causes a cyclic change in the rotational speed of the driven shaft. The greater the operating angle, the greater the speed changes in the shaft. The speed of the driveshaft also amplifies U-joint-induced vibration. The maximum acceptable operating angle of a U-joint decreases in direct proportion to shaft speed. At 2,000 rpm, the maximum angle is about 8°, while at 4,000 rpm, it is only about 4°. It’s important that you inspect the driveshaft angle or pinion angle on the rear axle. If someone has modified the suspension to change the vehicle’s ride height, they may have created a U-joint vibration problem. Shimming the rear axle and rear transmission mount to reduce the operating angles of the U-joints may be necessary to reduce or eliminate this kind of vibration. Another source of vibration can be a worn center carrier bearing on a two-piece driveshaft. The bearing should be replaced if it shows any looseness. Alignment of the bearing is also important. If off-center, it can create unequal drive angles and cause vibrations. Driveshaft runout can also cause vibrations. Runout can be checked by positioning a dial indicator near the center of the driveshaft, then rotating the shaft to determine the amount of total run-out. More than .010" of runout can cause trouble. Unbolt the rear U-joint and rotate it 180° in its yoke to see if that eliminates the run-out problem. If it does not, the shaft is bent and needs to be replaced. Driveshaft Imbalance Test Vibrations caused by driveshaft imbalance are more difficult to diagnose. One way to do this is to raise the rear wheels off the ground while supporting the rear axle (don’t let the axle hang otherwise it may create a driveline vibration by increasing the operating angle of the U-joints). 1. Start the engine and run the rear wheels up to speed (no more than 55 mph to be safe). When the vehicle starts to shake, note the speed. 2. Stop the engine, remove the rear wheels and reinstall the lug nuts to hold the brake drums in place. Then repeat the same test to see if the vibration is still present. If the vibration does not return, the problem is not the driveshaft but wheel and tire imbalance. If the vibration is still there, proceed to Step 3. 3. Stop the engine again, remove the brake drums and repeat the test once more. If the vibration is gone, the problem is drum imbalance. If the vibration persists, it’s the driveshaft. Caution: Do not step on the brake pedal while the drums are off, doing so will force the pistons out of the wheel cylinders. Just shut the engine off and let the drivetrain bring itself to a stop. To rebalance the driveshaft, send it to a machine shop that does balancing, or use an electronic on-car balancer to balance it yourself. (See following procedure.) If you’re using an on-car balancer, place the magnetic pickup head just behind the pinion nose under the axle housing and the strobe light under the rear of the driveshaft. Draw a chalk line on the shaft for a reference mark. Then run the shaft up to speed and note the relative position of the mark when it is illuminated by the strobe. The strobe will flash when the heaviest part of the driveshaft is at the six o’clock position (straight down). To correct the imbalance, install worm screw hose clamps on the shaft with the heavy part of the clamps positioned 180° opposite the heavy spot. Then run the shaft back up to speed to see if additional weight is needed to cancel out the vibration. Add more clamps as needed or weld a small chunk of iron to the shaft opposite the heavy spot. Repeat until the vibration is eliminated. If you don’t have an on-car balancer, install a pair of hose clamps on the shaft and make four reference marks 90° apart. Try the clamps at each of the various positions until you find the one that produces the least amount of vibration. Motor Mounts Often-overlooked engine components that may need to be replaced to eliminate vibration are motor mounts. These rubber mounts can deteriorate, collapse and/or separate with age. Fluid-filled "hydraulic" type mounts can often leak, allowing annoying engine vibrations to be transmitted to the chassis. Most mounts are designed so that separation won’t allow the engine to fall out onto the roadway. But a bad mount may cause a myriad of problems - many easily misdiagnosed. Often, bad motor mounts allow the engine to rock and move around, causing noise and interference problems with the throttle, transmission and clutch linkages. For example, a thumping noise when the transmission is put into gear or when the vehicle is accelerating is a classic symptom of a bad mount. Excessive engine rocking also can create exhaust leaks and rattles where the head pipe joins the exhaust manifold. Plus, the donut that seals the exhaust joint can be crushed or broken by the motions of the engine, or the head pipe or pipe flange may crack. Cracked or broken motor mounts can be an annoying source of vibration and noise, typically a clunk or shudder when accelerating hard. A broken or separated mount may even allow an engine-driven fan to scrape the fan shroud or contact the radiator, which also contributes to annoying noise. Because motor mounts maintain engine and driveline alignment in FWD cars and minivans with transverse-mounted engines, it’s important that the mounts be in good condition. The mounts support the engine and transmission or transaxle, and help dampen noise and vibration to isolate the powertrain from the rest of the vehicle. The upper mounts on FWD applications also help control engine rock as the engine applies torque through the driveshafts. While the design of the mount may prevent the engine from literally falling out of the car, it won’t keep the engine from twisting or hopping on its mounts every time the vehicle accelerates or is under load, which can produce thumping and rattling noises. It also can overstress components such as radiator and heater hoses, wiring connectors and the exhaust system. A broken or loose motor mount in an FWD application can be even more serious because it may allow engine movements that interfere with the throttle or shift linkage. If the bad mount is an end mount, it may also contribute to a torque steer condition and cause accelerated wear or separation of the inner CV joints on one or both driveshafts. The noise produced by a separated or broken motor mount often sounds like a bad U-joint or inner CV joint (a clunk when accelerating or placing the transmission or transaxle in gear). So before either of these other components are replaced, the mounts should be checked. Some mounts are "hydroelastic" and have hollow chambers filled with hydraulic fluid to dampen vibrations that would otherwise be transmitted across the mount to the chassis. Motor mounts need to be replaced when they’re loose, broken or collapsed. And, replacement mounts should be the same (fluid-filled hydroelastic or solid rubber) as the original. Caution: Substituting a less expensive solid mount for a fluid-filled mount can increase the transmission of engine noise and vibration to the rest of the chassis. These mounts may save your customer a few bucks, but won’t do the same job as the original. They feel harsher and transmit more noise and vibration to the rest of the vehicle, and ironically, may cause a customer to return with complaints of a harsh rides or vibration. Harmonic Balancer The harmonic balancer, also referred to as a vibration damper, is a device that is connected to the crankshaft in order to reduce the torsional vibration. As the cylinders fire, power is transmitted through the crankshaft. Since the front of the crankshaft takes the brunt of this power, it often moves before the rear of the crankshaft. This causes a twisting motion. As the power is removed from the front, the halfway twisted shaft unwinds and snaps back in the opposite direction. Although this unwinding process is quite small, it can cause "torsional vibration." To eliminate this vibration, a harmonic balancer is attached to the front part of the crankshaft that’s causing the trouble. The balancer is constructed of two pieces connected by rubber plugs, spring loaded friction discs, or both. Therefore, when the power from the cylinder hits the front of the crankshaft, it tries to twist the heavy part of the damper. Instead, it ends up twisting the rubber or discs connecting the two parts of the damper. Since the front of the crank can’t speed up as much with the damper attached, the force is used to twist the rubber and speed up the damper wheel. This helps keep the crankshaft operation calm. According to one parts manufacturer, replacement "harmonic balancers" are quickly becoming a hot item for today’s car owners. The reason is "harmonic vibrations," which can lead to a variety of mechanical failures. Harmonic vibrations are specific and repeated vibration patterns, which pass through an object. In today’s cars, such vibrations result from the combustion of the air-fuel mixture. Each time a cylinder fires, the connecting rod pounds the crankshaft journal as the force turns the crankshaft, causing energy to be dispersed throughout the engine. Multiply this by the number of cylinders (with variations in engine speed) and you have what is commonly called harmonic vibrations. Contributing to this column were Larry Carley and Gary Goms.

Automotive /Car No Start and a Normal Sound. Houston,Tx

Automotive /Car No Start and a Normal Sound. Houston,Tx Unlike many diagnosis, a slow starting sound can be traced back to a number of potential problems. Let's go over each to see if we cannot find your problem. 1. Is it the Battery? The simplest cause of the slow start problem can be a low or discharged battery. If the starter motor cannot get enough energy from the battery to turn over fast enough it will not start the car. 2. Starter Motor If your problem isn't due to a weak or partially discharged battery, you may be looking at a faulty starter motor. If the car was running for some time recently and you have reason to believe the battery has a charge, you might have a worn starter. Have your mechanic test your starter draw to check for this problem. 3. Faulty connection Also fairly common is a faulty connection somewhere between the battery and the starter. If the wiring that connects the two is loose, shorted, or show other signs of a problem this may well be the cause of the dilemma.

Automotive / Car No Start and Grinding Sound Houston,Tx

Automotive / Car No Start and Grinding Sound Houston,Tx The grinding sound that you hear is generally indicative of a bad starter drive gear. The gear is attempting to interconnect with the engine flywheel gear and the grind is a clear indication that something is wrong. This situation will need mechanical attention, but before calling for a tow you can try and start the car a few additional times to drive it to the station and avoid the tow costs. If you do wish to attempt to restart it, here's how: 1. Be Gentle and Patient First, give the car a few minutes. Then turn the key to the start position and see if the gear will engage. If you hear the grind again, immediately turn the key to the off position. You may try this a few times waiting a couple of minutes between each. If the car will still not start, and you have the time, try it again a few hours later, and the next morning. Your only goal here is to get the car started "one more time" so you can drive it to the repair shop to avoid the tow costs. If the car will not start after you have given it time and multiple tries, you will need to have it towed in and repaired.

Automotive /Car No Start and Spinning or Whirring Sound. Houston,Tx

Automotive /Car No Start and Spinning or Whirring Sound. Houston,Tx This spinning sound is indicative of a bad starter drive. Here, the whirring or spinning is the sound of the starter motor shaft spinning freely when it hasn't engaged. Most likely in this situation you will need to replace your starter. But before you need to pay the costs for a tow, you can make a few attempts to start the vehicle one last time and drive it into the shop. Here's how: 1. Be Gentle and Patient First, give the car a few minutes. You want to let everything come to a complete stop. Once the time has passed, turn the key to the start position. If the spinning is still present, immediately turn the key to the off position. If the car did not start, and you have the time, try it again a few hours later, and the next morning. Your only goal here is to get the car started "one more time" so you can drive it to the repair shop to avoid the tow costs. If the car will not start after you have given it time and multiple tries, you will need to have it towed in and repaired.

My automotive / car "CHECK ENGINE " light is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx

My automotive / car "CHECK ENGINE " light is on. What does that mean? Houston,Tx It means your vehicle’s onboard computer system has self-diagnosed some kind of problem. The "Check Engine" light, which is also called a "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" (MIL) or "Service Engine Soon" (SES) lamp, is there to signal you when a problem occurs that may require attention. This can include anything from a momentary hiccup that has has little or no noticeable affect on engine performance or driving safety to a failure of a major electronic component. There’s no way to know what the light means without running a diagnostic scan on the system to determine the nature of the fault. As a rule, a continuous Check Engine light usually signals a "hard fault" or failure that has occurred. If the light comes on and off, or only blinks momentarily, the problem may be minor or intermittent in nature. To help identify the problem, it helps to make a mental note of the conditions that occurred when the light came on. Where you driving at a certain speed? Accelerating or slowing down? Shifting gears? Onboard diagnostic systems are very complex and require a fair amount of expertise as well as special tools to troubleshoot. To find out what’s wrong, a technician has to "get into" your system through a diagnostic connector which may be located under the dash, under the driver’s seat or in the engine compartment. The diagnostic connector serves as a port of entry for accessing information and/or for putting your vehicle’s computer system into a special diagnostic mode for further testing or displaying "fault codes". Fault codes are numeric codes that are generated when a problem is detected. If a sensor circuit reads out of range or some electronic component fails to respond to a command from the computer, the computer recognizes it as a fault and records a number that corresponds to the nature of the problem. The technician must then retrieve the code and refer to specific diagnostic chart or "fault tree" that gives him the step-by-step checks he has to perform to isolate the failed component. It can be a very time-consuming process depending on the nature of the problem. Usually the process works but sometimes it doesn’t. An intermittent fault can be very difficult to track down, and may require repeated attempts to repair it

My automotive /car engine oil pressure warning light is on. What should I do? Houston,Tx

My automotive /car engine oil pressure warning light is on. What should I do? Houston,Tx Don’t ignore it. An oil pressure warning light (or low gauge reading) means one of two things: either your engine has dangerously low oil pressure (for a variety of reasons which we’ll get to in a minute), or the oil pressure sending unit that triggers the warning light (or operates your gauge) has failed. The question here is whether you have a serious problem or a minor one. First, do not keep driving if the oil warning light is on or your oil pressure gauge has dropped. Stop the engine, let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil level. Is the level low? If the oil level is down more than two quarts or no oil is showing on the dipstick, adding oil to bring the level back up to the full mark may be all that’s necessary to make the light go out. Just keep your fingers crossed that you haven’t damaged the engine from running it too low on oil. If you hear rapping or knocking noises the engine starts, you’re too late. The damage is done and now you’re stuck with the consequences. Note: On some late model vehicles, the warning light will come on (or a message will appear) if a sensor in the oil pan detects a low oil level. The light is supposed to come on before the level gets low enough to cause any damage. If your oil level was low, it means your engine is either leaking oil or burning it. Leaks can be fixed by finding and replacing leaky gaskets and seals. Sometimes the oil filter will leak if it isn’t installed or tightened properly. But an oil burning problem means the valve guides, rings and/or cylinders are worn or damaged and more costly repairs are needed. If the dipstick shows a full oil level, then low oil obviously isn’t your problem. The oil pressure may be low because of a worn or broken oil pump, a plugged oil pickup screen in the engine’s crankcase, possibly a plugged oil filter or excessive bearing wear. Or, the oil pressure may be fine but the oil pressure sending unit has failed. Further diagnosis will be required to determine what’s wrong. Should you attempt to drive your vehicle home or to a service facility? It’s risky. If the problem came on suddenly, your engine does not have a lot of miles on it (less than 60,000) and you noticed no unusual noises (no valvetrain clattering or engine knocking), there’s a good chance that all that’s wrong is the sending unit. But, there’s no way to know for sure without actually checking the engine’s oil pressure with a gauge, or replacing the sending unit to see if a new unit makes the light go out. If the problem is only the sending unit, your engine still has oil pressure and you can continue to drive it until the sending unit can be replaced. But, if you’re wrong you risk ruining your engine. If you think you might have a low oil pressure or oil delivery problem because of a bad oil pump or one of the other problems we mentioned, do not drive your vehicle. Doing so only increases the probability of further engine damage. Have the vehicle towed to a service facility for repairs.

My automotive / car front-wheel drive car makes a clicking sound when turning. Is anything wrong? Houston,Tx

My automotive / car front-wheel drive car makes a clicking sound when turning. Is anything wrong? Houston,Tx Yes. A clicking sound when turning is one of the classic symptoms of a worn or damaged "constant velocity" (CV) joint. Your car has four such joints on the two front axles: two inboard joints and two outboard joints. The outboard joints are the ones that make a clicking sound when they go bad. Inside the joint are six steel balls, positioned in grooves between an inner race and an outer housing. The balls are held in position by a cage that looks something like a wide bracelet with windows or slots cut in it. When the joint is new, the balls fit tightly into the cage windows. But as the joint accumulates miles, the cage windows become worn and allow the balls to rattle around. The grooves in the inner race and outer housing also wear, which further contributes to noise. When driving straight, a worn CV joint is usually quiet (constant noise would indicate a bad wheel bearing or other problem). But when the wheels are turned to either side, the joint bends causing the balls to click as they slide around in their cage windows and grooves. The noise is usually loudest when backing up with the wheels turned. Repacking the joint with grease won’t help because the joint is worn and needs to be replaced. The "normal" life of a CV joint is usually 100,000 miles or more. But a joint can fail prematurely if the rubber boot that surrounds it is damaged or develops a leak. Cv Joint Boots The boot, which is made of rubber or hard plastic, serves two purposes: it keeps the joint’s vital supply of special grease inside, and it keeps dirt and water out. After five or six years of service, it’s not unusual for the boot to develop age cracks or splits. Boots can also be damaged by road hazards or a careless tow truck operator who uses J-hooks to tow your vehicle. Once the boot seal is broken, the inside grease quickly leaks out. Starved for lubrication, the CV joint soon fails. Dirt and water can also enter the boot and contaminate any grease that’s left inside. Either way, a damaged boot is bad news for the joint. CV joint boots should be inspected periodically (when the oil is changed is a good time) to make sure they are not cracked or torn, and that the clamps are tight. If you see grease on the outside of the boot, it is leaking and needs to be replaced (the sooner the better). If a clamp is loose and the boot is leaking grease at one end, the clamp needs to be replaced. Original equipment boots are a one-piece design, which means the driveshaft and CV joint have to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled to replace a bad boot. However, there are aftermarket "split-boots" designed for easy do-it-yourself installation. The split-boots eliminate the need to remove and disassemble the joint and driveshaft. You simply cut off the old boot, clean out as much of the old grease as possible from the joint, pack the joint with fresh high temperature CV joint grease (never ordinary chassis grease), then install the new boot. Most split-boots have a seam that is glued together. The seam must not have any grease smeared on it and the glue must be applied carefully for a good seal. Also, the vehicle must not be driven until the glue has cured (about an hour or so). NOTE: Most professional mechanics do not use split-boots because (1) they don’t think a split-boot is as reliable or as long-lived as a one-piece original equipment style boot, and (2) they don’t like the idea of installing a new boot on a questionable joint. By the time a damaged or leaky boot is noticed, the joint has usually lost most of its grease and/or been contaminated by dirt. Unless the joint is removed, disassembled, cleaned and inspected, there’s no way to know if it is still in good enough condition to remain in service. If it’s making noise, replacing the boot would be a waste of time because the joint is bad and needs to be replaced (most new joints come with a new boot, clamps and grease). But even if the joint isn’t making any noise, it may still have wear or internal damage that will soon cause it to fail. WARNING: A CV joint failure can cause loss of steering control under certain circumstances. If the joint locks up, it can prevent the wheels from being turned.

What's the difference between a automotive /car U-joint and a constant velocity (CV) joint? Houston,Tx

What's the difference between a automotive /car U-joint and a constant velocity (CV) joint? Houston,Tx A U-joint (the "U" stands for "Universal"), which is also called a "Cardan" joint after the guy who invented it, is a type of flexible coupling typically used on both ends of the driveshafts in rear-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles. Each U-joint consists of a four-legged center cross with needle bearing cups on the ends of each leg of the cross. The bearing cups on one pair of legs are mounted to the driveshaft. The other pair of cups are held in place by a pair of U-bolts attached to a yoke that mates to either the transmission or differential. The bearing cups allow the joint to swivel and bend as the driveshaft follows the motions of the differential and axle as the suspension bounces up and down. Most original equipment U-joints on newer vehicles are "sealed" and do not require periodic greasing. But many replacement U-joints as well as the U-joints on older vehicles do have a grease fitting which allows the joint to be lubed periodically. Cv Joints A constant velocity (CV) joint does essentially the same thing as a U-joint, only better. There are two basic types: "ball-and groove" CV joints (called "Rzeppa" joints after the guy who invented them), and "tripod" CV joints. Rzeppa CV joints, which are used as the outer joints on most front-wheel drive cars and minivans, consist of a cup-shaped outer housing, a center race and cage assembly. Machined into the outer housing and center race are six grooves that hold six steel balls. The balls are held in position by windows or slots cut into the cage assembly. The joint is designed so that when it bends, the balls are always positioned at the midway point inside the joint. This eliminates the cyclic variations in speed that a U-joint experiences when it operates at more than a few degrees off-center. A variation on the Rzeppa CV joint is the "cross-groove" CV joint. It also has six balls between an inner race and outer housing. But this type of joint is designed to move or plunge in and out to compensate for changes in driveshaft length that occur as the suspension moves up and down. This type of joint is used as the inboard CV joint on many European and Japanese front-wheel drive cars. The tripod style of CV joint consists of a three-legged cross or trunnion with roller bearings on the end of each leg. The trunnion is attached to the driveshaft, and the roller bearings run in machined grooves or channels in an outer "tulip" housing. This type of joint is also designed to plunge in and out, and is used as the inner CV joint on most domestic front-wheel drive vehicles. There are also some Japanese and European front-wheel drive cars that use a tripod-style joint as the outer joint. All CV joints are enclosed by a rubber or hard plastic boot. The boot keeps grease in and contaminants out. CV joints do not require periodic maintenance or greasing, and are engineered to last 100,000 miles or more. All front-wheel drive cars and minivans have four CV joints: one inner joint and one outer joint on each of the vehicle’s two driveshafts (which are also called "halfshafts"). CV joints are also used on the driveshafts of some rear-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles, too.

How often do I need to have my automotive / car wheels aligned? Houston,Tx

How often do I need to have my automotive / car wheels aligned? Houston,Tx Once. If the wheels on your vehicle are correctly aligned when the vehicle is manufactured at the factory, they should not change alignment until something in the suspension wears out or is damaged. Alignment doesn’t change. The only thing that changes it is wear or damage. Hitting a pot hole or a thousand pot holes won’t knock your suspension out of alignment unless you hit something hard enough to actually bend metal. That really doesn’t happen very often, so having the wheels aligned periodically is a waste of money. On the other hand, there are valid reasons for having the alignment checked periodically: If your tires are wearing abnormally, alignment should be checked to find out why. Chances are something is amiss and needs to be readjusted or replaced. It only takes a 1/8 inch of toe misalignment to drag the front tires sideways the equivalent of 28 feet for every mile traveled! If you’re buying a new set of tires and want to maximize tread life, it’s a good idea to have the alignment checked as insurance. Even if the factory alignment is within the acceptable range specified by the vehicle manufacturer, there’s often room for improvement. Resetting alignment to the "preferred specs" (which means the midrange or optimum specs) will usually extend tire life -- sometimes significantly. Considering the high cost of many performance tires today, assuring maximum tire life with an alignment is money well spent. If you’re experiencing any kind of steering or handling problem, an alignment check may be necessary for diagnostic purposes. An important aspect of aligning the wheels is performing a preliminary alignment inspection of the suspension and steering linkage. This is necessary to determine if there are any worn, damaged or mislocated parts. It’s impossible to realign worn or damaged parts so any such parts must be replaced before the wheels can be realigned. Wheel alignment is also required when certain suspension and steering components are replaced. On most cars with MacPherson struts, the front wheels should be realigned if the struts are replaced (NOTE: This is not necessary on certain import vehicles that have replaceable strut cartridges). Alignment is also required if the tie rods, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering links, control arms or control arm bushings, steering knuckle or steering rack have been replaced. Another benefit of having the wheels aligned is to assure optimum handling and traction for driving safety. Camber, in particular, is a very important angle with respect to keeping the tire’s treads in full contact with the road. Tires that lean in or out ride on the shoulder and reduce traction, cornering ability and tread life. Camber can even affect braking. Uneven camber or caster side to side can make a vehicle lead to the left or the right.

My automotive / car engine has too much compression due to excessive carbon buildup. Houston,Tx

My automotive / car engine has too much compression due to excessive carbon buildup. Houston,Tx When fuel burns, it leaves behind deposits that stick to the combustion chamber, valves and top of the piston. How quickly the deposits accumulate depends on the type of driving done and the quality of the fuel burned. Carbon deposits gradually accumulate in a new engine for the first 5,000 to 15,000 miles, then level off. A state of equilibrium is reached where old deposits flake off at about the same rate as new deposits are formed. However, infrequent driving, infrequent oil changes or internal engine problems such as worn valve guides, or worn, broken or improperly seated rings that allow oil burning can greatly accelerate the accumulation of deposits. This may cause the carbon deposits to reach a much greater than normal thickness, which in turn raises compression and causes spark knock or detonation problems. The deposits may even build up to the point where they cause physical contact between the piston and head. This, too, can make noise as well as be very damaging to your engine. Getting Rid Of Deposits To get rid of the deposits, pour a can of "top cleaner" down the carburetor while the engine is idling (follow the directions). Allow the chemical to soak for the recommended period of time, then restart the engine to blow out the loosened deposits. An oil change afterwards is recommended because some of the solvent will leak down into the crankcase and dilute the oil. If chemical cleaning fails to do the trick, it may be necessary to pull the head and scrape the deposits off. Some shops also have equipment that allows them to blast deposits loose by blowing a "soft" blasting media such as crushed walnut shells into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole.

What is a automotive / car " valve job " and when is it necessary? Houston,Tx

What is a automotive / car " valve job " and when is it necessary? Houston,Tx A valve job is removing the cylinder head(s) from the engine so the valves, guides and seats can be refurbished to restore compression and oil control. A valve job may be necessary by the time an engine has 80,000 or more miles on it, or to fix a "burned valve," compression or oil burning problem. Before we describe all the steps that a typical valve job involves, we should warn you that some shops don’t necessary do all the steps. In other words, you get what you pay for. A "cheapie" valve job might skip a lot of things that saves you a few dollars in the short run, but may end up costing you a lot more in the long run. So look for a shop or service facility that does quality work. A valve job typically begins by disassembling, cleaning and inspecting the cylinder head. Cast iron heads are "Magnafluxed" to check for hairline cracks. This involves applying a strong magnetic field to the head and sprinkling iron powder on it. Cracks disrupt the magnetic field and attract the iron powder, making invisible cracks easy to see. Cracks are bad news because they can leak coolant into the combustion chamber damaging the cylinders and/or causing the engine to lose coolant and overheat. If cracks are found in any critical areas of the head, the head must either be repaired or replaced. Cracks in cast iron heads are most often repaired by "pinning" (installing a series of overlapping threaded pins). Cracks in aluminum heads are very common and can often be repaired by welding. If a head has been repaired (pinned or welded), most shops will usually pressure test the head afterward to make sure there are no leaks. Some may also apply a sealer compound to the inside of the water jackets as added insurance against future leaks. Once the head passes this point, it is also checked for flatness. The surface of the head must be flat to seal the head gasket against the block. Excessive warpage, roughness or any damage can cause the head gasket to fail. If the head exceeds the maximum allowable out-of-flatness specs, it must be resurfaced or replaced. Usually there’s enough metal in the head to allow for a certain amount of resurfacing. But on many import aluminum cylinder heads, the amount of resurfacing that’s possible is minimal. Overhead cam aluminum cylinder heads are often found to be warped (usually the result of overheating). If the condition cannot be corrected by resurfacing, the head can often be straightened by heating it in a special oven and then bending it until it is straight. Next come the valves, guides and seats. The guides are checked for wear. They’re almost always worn, so they either need to be replaced, relined or knurled (a process whereby grooves are cut into the inside diameter of the guides to decrease the bore size). Few shops knurl guides anymore. Most install new guides, guide liners or bore out the old guides to accept new valves with oversized stems. Aluminum heads have cast iron or bronze guides that can be replaced but most cast iron heads do not. If the valves are to be reused, they will be inspected, checked for straightness then refaced. Many shops automatically replace all the exhaust valves to reduce the risk of failure (exhaust valves run much hotter than intakes and are much more likely to fail). The seats in the head are either cut or ground to restore the sealing surface. If a seat is cracked or too badly worn to be refaced, the seat must be replaced. If that isn’t possible (as is the case on many late model cast iron heads because the casting is too thin), then the entire head must be replaced. All aluminum heads have hardened steel seats that can be replaced. The valve springs are all inspected and tested to make sure they are still capable of maintaining proper pressure. The spring retainers, keepers and other hardware is likewise inspected. Any worn or damaged components are replaced. New valve guide seals are always used. The valves are then installed in the head and shimmed to restore proper valve height. This is necessary because machining the valves and seat alters their dimensions. Valve height is important because it affects valvetrain geometry and guide wear. If it is an overhead cam engine, the cam is also installed and the valve lash adjusted prior to returning the head to the customer.

Is it necessary to replace my automotive / car belts periodically? Houston,Tx

Is it necessary to replace my automotive / car belts periodically? Houston,Tx Yes. Although the auto makers don’t usually specify a replacement interval for V-belts or serpentine (flat, multi-ribbed) belts, most belt manufacturers do recommend periodic replacement for preventative maintenance. Here’s why: the incidence of belt failure rises sharply in the fourth year of service for the typical V-belt, and the fifth year for serpentine belts. What’s more, eight out of ten V-belt failures and ten out of ten serpentine belt failures end up causing a breakdown! That’s because belts have the uncanny knack of always picking the worst possible moment to fail -- like when you’re heading out of town on that long-awaited fishing trip, when you’re hurrying to pick up a hot date who told you NOT to be late, or when you’re giving your dear mother-in-law a ride to church. A broken belt is always bad news because when it snaps, all drive power to whatever it turns is lost. That means the water pump quits circulating coolant through the engine, the alternator quits producing amps, the power steering pump ceases to assist steering, and the air conditioner quits cooling. Many newer vehicles have a single serpentine belt that drives all of the engine’s accessories, so when it fails everything stops working. The good news is that replacing the belts periodically can go a long way towards minimizing the risk of a breakdown caused by belt failure. After all, it’s a lot easier to replace a belt at your convenience than having the belt fail unexpectedly Heavens knows where. For optimum protection, most experts recommend replacing V-belts every three to four years, or every 36,000 to 48,000 miles. A recommended replacement interval for serpentine belts would be every four or five years, or 50,000 miles. Belt Life The service life of a V-belt depends on mileage as well as load, tension and heat. Every time a belt passes around a pulley, it bends and flexes. This produces heat which age hardens the rubber over time. The wear process can be greatly accelerated if the belt is loose and slips because any added friction between belt and pulley makes the belt run even hotter. This can cause glazing on the faces of the belt and cause it to slip even more. So one of the most important factors that affects belt life is making sure it is properly tensioned when it is installed and that the proper tension is maintained throughout its service life. Symptoms that may be the result of improper belt tension include: Belt squeal, especially on the fan, A/C compressor or power steering drives. A battery that keeps running down (due to belt slippage). Excessive sidewall wear on a V-belt that causes it to ride lower than normal in the pulley grooves. Severe cracking along the underside of a V-belt. Noisy alternator, power steering pump, air pump, A/C compressor or water pump bearings (from excessive belt tension). Belt Replacement Replacement V-belts must be the same length and width as the original. A belt that’s too long or too short may not allow enough adjustment for proper tension. A belt that’s too wide or too narrow will not ride at the right depth in the pulley grooves. CAUTION: When installing a new belt, do not attempt to "stretch" it over pulleys. Doing so can break the internal cords causing the belt to fail. Always loosen the pulleys so there is adequate clearance to slip the belt over the pulleys. Once the belt has been installed on the pulleys, a belt gauge should be used to adjust belt tension to factory specifications. The old rule of thumb of allowing 1/2 inch of "give" between the furthest pulleys is not a very accurate guide for today’s engines. So follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for belt tension. Once tension has been adjusted, it should be rechecked and readjusted (if necessary) after a short break-in period (say after 500 to 1,000 miles of driving). It should then be checked twice a year or every 5,000 or 6,000 miles thereafter. On vehicles with a single serpentine belt, tension is usually self-adjusted automatically via a spring loaded tensioner. No additional adjustment is necessary. If your engine has been eating or twisting belts, misaligned pulleys may be your problem. Alignment can be checked with a straightedge. If a pulley is bent or not in the same plane as the rest, the problem should be corrected otherwise the "bad" pulley will continue to ruin belts.

My Automotive /Car engine has a steady miss and gets terrible fuel milage. What's wrong? Houston, Tx

My Automotive /Car engine has a steady miss and gets terrible fuel milage. What's wrong? Houston, Tx A steady miss indicates one of three things: a cylinder that isn’t firing because of an ignition problem, a cylinder that isn’t firing because it isn’t receiving fuel (multipoint fuel injected engines only), or a cylinder that has lost compression. The first step in diagnosing this kind of problem is to identify the dead cylinder. A professional mechanic can do this quickly by hooking the engine up to an ignition oscilloscope and displaying an ignition raster pattern. The dead cylinder will show a firing voltage that is significantly higher or lower than its companions depending on the nature of the problem. He might also do a "power balance" test and/or a compression test to find the dead cylinder. One way you can find a weak or dead cylinder is to momentarily disconnect each of your engine’s spark plug wires one at a time while the engine is running. When the plug wire is removed from the spark plug, there should be a big drop in idle speed and idle smoothness. When you pull a wire and there’s little or no change in idle speed or quality, you’ve found the bad cylinder. It makes no difference whether you remove each plug wire from the spark plug or the distributor (or coil pack on distributorless ignition systems). The idea is to simply disconnect each cylinder for a moment to see if it makes any difference in the way the engine runs. The one that makes no difference is the problem cylinder. CAUTION: Disconnecting spark plug wires while the engine is dangerous because you risk getting shocked. You can minimize this danger one of several ways. One is to wear rubber gloves and use insulated spark plug wire pliers to momentarily disconnect each plug wire. Another is to make sure no part of your body is touching or leaning against any metal surface on the vehicle (the fender, hood, grille, etc.). Or, you could turn the engine off, remove a plug wire, restart the engine, note any change in idle, then repeat for each of the remaining spark plugs. Ignition Diagnosis If you disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug and hold the end of the wire close to the plug terminal or other metal surface, you should see a spark and/or hear a crisp snapping noise if voltage is getting through the wire. No spark would tell you the plug wire is bad, voltage is arcing inside the distributor cap (remove and inspect the cap for cracks and carbon tracks -- replace if any are found) or a dead coil on a distributorless ignition system (Note: on most distributorless ignition systems, each coil fires two cylinders. So if both cylinders are dead, you know for sure the coil is not working. If only one cylinder is dead, however, it’s not the coil). If all of the plug wires seem to be sparking okay, the next step would be to remove the spark plug in the problem cylinder. Fouling is a common cause of ignition misfire. Examine the end of the plug. If the electrode is covered with deposits, clean or replace the spark plug. Also, note the type of deposits on the plug. Thick, black, wet or oily-looking deposits would tell you the cylinder is burning oil (probably due to worn valve guides, rings and/or cylinder wall). If the deposits are a powdery black, the cylinder is running too rich (probably due to a leaky injector on a multipoint fuel injected engine). If the deposits are brown or gray, it indicates a normal buildup. However, the plug may be fouled because it hasn’t been changed for a long time, because it is the wrong "heat range" for your engine application (you need a hotter plug), or because of frequent short trip stop-and-go driving. In any event, if the plug is fouled you should probably remove, inspect and clean or replace all of the spark plugs. Fuel Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is receiving spark through the plug wire and the spark plug itself appears to be okay (not wet or fouled), and your engine has multipoint fuel injection you may have a dead fuel injector. To check for this kind of problem, start the engine and place your finger on the injector. You should feel a buzzing vibration if the injector is working. No buzz means the injector is either defective or it is not receiving a voltage signal through its wiring harness. You can check for the presence of voltage with a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. Disconnect the injector wiring connector and attach the test light or voltmeter between the injector and connector. If the light doesn’t flash or you don’t see a voltage reading when the engine is running, it indicates a wiring or computer problem that will require further diagnosis. If voltage is getting through but the injector isn’t working, then the injector is defective and needs to be replaced. Sometimes the injector will appear to be working but really isn’t. It will be receiving voltage and buzzing as normal, but because it is clogged up with varnish deposits little or no fuel is actually being squirted into the cylinder. If ignition and compression are both okay in the bad cylinder, therefore, it would tell you the injector is clogged. On-car cleaning may reopen the clogged injector is the varnish isn’t built up too thick. But a completely clogged injector usually doesn’t respond well to this type of cleaning. It either has to be removed for off-car cleaning (which may or may not succeed id reopening it) or be replaced. Compression Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is getting spark and fuel, the only thing that’s left is a compression problem. The most likely causes here would be a leaky valve (probably an exhaust valve since they run much hotter than intake valves and usually fail or "burn" first), a blown head gasket (this usually involves two adjacent cylinders, however), or a rounded or badly worn cam lobe. A compression check will verify if the cylinder is developing its normal compression. Little or no compression would verify any of the above problems. A leakage test could also be used to further diagnose and identify the nature of the problem (valves, head gasket or cam). Air leakage through the exhaust port would indicate a bad exhaust valve. Air leakage back through the intake manifold would indicate a bad intake valve. Air leaking into an adjacent cylinder would indicate a blown head gasket. Minimal leakage would indicate a rounded cam lobe. Leaky valves would require removing the cylinder head and having a valve job performed. A leaky head gasket would require removing the head and replacing the gasket (and probably resurfacing the head to restore flatness). A cam problem would require removing and replacing the camshaft and lifters (old lifters should never be reused with a new cam).

Automotive / Car Fuel injectors are dirty and need to be cleaned. Houston,Tx

Automotive / Car Fuel injectors are dirty and need to be cleaned. Houston,Tx "Dirty" is actually a misnomer. Rarely are injectors clogged with dirt. Rather, they are usually clogged or restricted by a buildup of fuel varnish deposits. This reduces the amount of fuel that the injector sprays, which in turn may cause the engine to run lean and misfire, hesitate or stall. A fuel injector is nothing more than spray nozzle. With mechanical injectors, a spring loaded valve allows fuel to squirt out of the nozzle when line pressure overcomes spring tension that holds the valve shut. With electronic injectors, a spring-loaded solenoid pulls open a pintle valve or ball type valve when the injector is energized by the computer. This allows the pressurized fuel in the fuel rail to flow through the injector and squirt out the nozzle. Injectors come in a variety of styles. Early Bosch style injectors have a pintle valve and are the ones most prone to clogging. In 1989, General Motors introduced its new "Multec" style injectors which have a ball valve design and are claimed to be more resistant to clogging. Other injectors have a disc-valve design that is also said to resist clogging. The truth is ANY injector can clog. Nobody’s injectors are immune to this kind of problem, but some are obviously better than others. Problems can occur even with a slight buildup of deposits. Because the injector orifice is so small, it doesn’t take much crud to restrict the flow of fuel or to disrupt the spray pattern. For good combustion, the injectors must produce a fine cone-shaped mist of fuel vapor. Wear or deposits in the nozzle can create "streamers" of liquid fuel that vaporize and burn poorly. This, in turn, can cause hesitation, emissions and performance problems. Injector Cleaning The cure for a set of clogged injectors is cleaning -- or replacement if they’re too badly clogged to respond to cleaning. Injectors are expensive to replace. New domestic injectors sell for $60 to $100 each, with new import injectors fetching $125 to $175 each. Injectors should only be replaced as a last resort. If your injectors are clogged, they can be cleaned with pressurized solvent, or removed for off-car cleaning. There are also fuel tank additives that claim to clean clogged injectors, but the cleaning such products do is usually minimal. So save your money and put it towards a professional cleaning. There are do-it-yourself on-car injector pressure cleaning kits that are similar to the equipment professionals use. But some of these kits can be tricky or even dangerous to use. Our advice is to let a professional do it. On-car injector cleaning involves feeding solvent under pressure into the injector fuel rail or supply line. The concentrated solvent passes through the injectors and loosens and washes away the accumulated varnish deposits. The results are usually good, and make a noticeable difference in idle smoothness, emissions and fuel economy. If your injectors are really clogged and fail to respond well to on-car cleaning, off-car cleaning using special fuel injection cleaning equipment would be the next logical option. Some of this equipment is designed to "reverse" flush the injectors so any debris that’s trapped inside the injector or above the inlet screen will also be removed. Off-car cleaning also allows a mechanic to observe the spray pattern of the injectors to make sure there aren’t any streamers or problems. Off-car cleaning is more expensive because of the labor involved to remove the injectors, but the results are usually better. Keeping Injectors Clean The best way to minimize or eliminate the need for injector cleaning is to use a quality brand of gasoline that contains sufficient detergent to prevent varnish buildup. Most brand name gasolines today have enough detergent to do this. As a rule, premium grades usually contain a somewhat higher concentration of cleaners. You can also use fuel tank additives to keep your injectors clean. Such products really aren’t necessary if you’re using quality gasoline. But if you’re buying the cheapest gas you can find, using an additive might be good insurance.

How can I tell if my automotive / car fuel filter needs to be replaced? Houston,Tx

How can I tell if my automotive / car fuel filter needs to be replaced? Houston,Tx The only way to tell for sure is to remove the filter and blow through it. If there’s little resistance, the filter is still okay and does not need to be replaced. But if there’s more than minimal resistance, the filter is dirty and should be replaced. CAUTION: Gasoline is poisonous, does not taste very good and may burn sensitive lips. So don’t hold the filter to your mouth to blow through it. Instead, attach a short piece of clean rubber hose to the filter and then blow through the hose to test the filter. Filter Problems A completely plugged fuel filter will stop your engine cold by choking off the flow of fuel to the carburetor or injectors. The engine may not start, or it may start, then stall and die. Some filters have a spring-loaded bypass, however, that allows fuel to bypass the filter element if it becomes clogged. Fuel continues to flow, but it may carry dirt to the carburetor or injectors, which can create additional problems. A partially restricted filter will usually pass enough fuel to keep the engine running at idle or low speed, but may starve the engine for fuel at higher speeds or loads. So your engine may run fine putting around town, but sputter and lack power when you try to drive at highway speeds or pass someone. Tank Filter Located inside the fuel tank is a screen or mesh sock that acts like a prefilter to keep big pieces of dirt and rust from being drawn into the fuel pickup tube or tank-mounted electric fuel pump. If the screen becomes clogged with debris, it can have the same effect as a plugged or dirty fuel filter. Therefore, if you’ve been experiencing a fuel starvation problem and have replaced the fuel filter -- and it didn’t help -- the screen in the tank is probably the culprit. To clean or replace it, the fuel tank usually has to be removed. WARNING: The fuel tank must be drained prior to removal. The fuel must be stored in a sealed "approved" container. The battery should also be disconnected to prevent any accidental sparks from an in-tank electric fuel pump connection from igniting the vapors. Do not smoke when working on the fuel tank, filter or fuel lines, and keep all other sources of ignition away (electric heaters, pilot lights, etc.) from the work area. Filter Replacement Replacing the fuel filter periodically (every year or so) for preventative maintenance can reduce the risk of filter-related driveability problems. Most vehicle manufacturers, however, no longer specify a replacement interval for the fuel filter. Or, if they do it’s some incredibly long interval like once every five years or 50,000 miles. Many mechanics feel this is unrealistic. Waiting that long to change the filter is asking for trouble, especially if you drive on gravel or dirt roads, buy the cheapest gas you can find from "cut-rate" stations, use gas with alcohol in it, or your vehicle is more than six or seven years old and may have rust in the tank. The fuel filter on carbureted engines is usually located at the inlet fitting of the carburetor, or an "in-line" filter is used between the fuel pump and carburetor. When replacing a filter that screws into the inlet fitting on the carburetor, be careful not to overtighten the filter. The threads in the carburetor are relatively soft and can be easily stripped. But also make sure the filter is snug so that it doesn’t leak. It’s okay to apply some gasket sealer to the filter threads to assure a leak-free connection. But do not use RTV silicone sealer (which gasoline dissolves) or teflon tape (pieces of which can flake loose and end up in the carburetor). When replacing an in-line filter, most filters come with two new rubber hoses that go on either side of the filter. Use them. Don’t reuse the old hoses because rubber hoses deteriorate over time and can leak or shed small flakes or rubber that can end up in the filter or carburetor. Also, make sure the hose clamps are properly positioned and tight. NOTE: Most in-line filters have an arrow showing the direction fuel should flow through the filter. Install the filter so the arrow points toward the carburetor. Fuel Injection Filters Fuel filters on fuel injected engines are usually larger and have a finer filter element than those on carbureted engines. Consequently, they are usually more expensive. The filter may be located anywhere between the fuel tank and injector fuel supply rail or throttle body. On many cars, light trucks and minivans, the filter is located underneath the vehicle along a frame rail. On some, the filter is part of the electric fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank! Refer to a shop manual for your fuel filter’s location. CAUTION: Fuel injected engines usually have a lot of residual pressure in the fuel line, even when a vehicle has sat overnight. So either follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedure for relieving pressure in the line prior to removing the filter (applying vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator manifold fitting, or cranking the engine with the ignition disabled), or wrap a rag around the hose connections and slowly loosen them. If the filter has an arrow indicating the direction of flow, it should be installed with the arrow pointing toward the engine and away from the fuel tank. If the filter is located inside the tank, the tank will probably have to be removed. Follow the same precautions as previously described for replacing a plugged pickup screen.

How often should I change my automotive /car fuel filter? Houston,Tx

How often should I change my automotive /car fuel filter? Houston,Tx For high mileage vehicles, replacing the fuel filter annually for preventative maintenance is a good idea for two reasons. By the time a vehicle is six or seven years old, there can be a fair amount of rust and debris in the fuel tank. Rust can be formed by moisture and condensation, and debris can get into your tank anytime you add fuel. So changing it on a periodic basis can help minimize the risk of plugging. Most newer vehicles do not have a specified interval for replacing the fuel filter. In fact, some even have "lifetime" filters that supposedly never need to be changed. But any filter can plug up if enough rust or debris gets sucked into the fuel inlet. Gasoline is supposed to be filtered at the pump. But it sometimes isn’t. What’s more, the fuel you put in your tank may be contaminated with water from leaky underground storage tanks, improperly mixed alcohol blends, or even watered-down by an unscrupulous operator who’s trying to make a fast buck. So there are no guarantees. Replacing the filter periodically for preventative maintenance is simply insurance that reduces the risk of it plugging up. Given enough time, every filter will eventually reach the end of its service life. Even the filter in a brand new vehicle right off the showroom floor is at risk if the owner happens to get a dirty tank of fuel. Filter Inspection If you don’t want to replace the filter unnecessarily, you can remove it and check it to see if it passes air easily (More information on replacing fuel filtersis available). If the filter creates any significant resistance when you blow through it, it needs to be replaced.

How can I tell if my automotive / car catalytic converter is working properly? Houston,Tx

How can I tell if my automotive / car catalytic converter is working properly? Houston,Tx The catalytic converter is our main line of defense against air pollution, so it’s important to make sure it is functioning efficiently and passing exhaust without creating undue restrictions that might reduce performance, fuel economy or emissions. That’s one of the reasons for periodic vehicle emissions testing. If the converter isn’t working, you won’t pass the test. If the your converter is plugged, it will create a restriction in your exhaust system. The buildup of backpressure will cause a drastic drop in engine performance and fuel economy, and may even cause the engine to stall after it starts if the blockage is severe. The easiest test for converter plugging is done with a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to a source of intake vacuum on the intake manifold, carburetor or throttle body. Note the reading at idle, then raise and hold engine speed at 2,500. The needle will drop when you first open the throttle, but should then rise and stabilize. If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be backing up in the exhaust system. You can also try to measure backpressure directly. If your engine has air injection, disconnect the check valve from the distribution manifold, and connect a low pressure gauge. Or, remove the oxygen sensor and take your reading at its hole in the manifold or headpipe. Refer to the backpressure specs for the application. Generally speaking, more than 1.25 psi of backpressure at idle, or more than 3 psi at 2,000 rpm tells you there’s an exhaust restriction. If there appears to be an exhaust restriction, disconnect the exhaust pipe just aft of the converter to relieve pressure and recheck the readings. CAUTION: The pipes will be hot so wait awhile for things to cool down. If vacuum goes up and/or backpressure drops, the problem isn’t not a plugged converter but a plugged muffler or collapsed pipe. If there’s little or no change in readings, the converter is plugged. Just because a converter is passing gas doesn’t mean it is okay. If the catalyst inside is contaminated or worn out, high carbon monoxide (CO) and/or hydrocarbon (HC) readings will be present in the exhaust. If you have access to a high temperature digital pyrometer (or an oven thermometer will do), check the converter’s temperature fore and aft. A good converter will usually run 100 degrees F hotter at its outlet than its inlet. Little or no temperature change would indicate low efficiency, or a problem with the converter’s air supply. Converters need supplemental oxygen in the exhaust to reburn pollutants, so if the air injection system or aspirator valve isn’t doing its job the converter can’t do its job either. Check the air injection pump, belt and check valve. If you suspect that the check valve is allowing exhaust to flow backwards, remove it and blow through both ends. It should let air pass in one direction, but not in the other. Examine the air injection manifold, too, because it tends to rust out and leak air. Check the diverter valve to make sure it is working correctly, too. It should be routing air to the converter when the engine is at normal temperature. On engines with aspirator valves instead of air pumps, you should hear and/or feel the fluttering of the internal flapper as the engine is idling. Causes Of Converter Failures Fouling, clogging, melt-down and breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a converter are common conditions that can cause problems. Plugging is usually the end result of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot. This happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. The excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures soaring. If it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the catalyst melts. The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust because of a bad spark plug or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel mixture is another possibility. In older carbureted engines, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float may be the underlying cause. But on newer engines with "feedback" carburetion or electronic fuel injection, the engine may not be going into "closed loop" (the normal mode where the computer regulates the air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions). A bad oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think the exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by making the fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a cold engine will also keep the system in open loop, which means a steady diet of excess fuel. But it might not be the sensor’s fault. A thermostat that’s stuck open or is too cold for the application can prevent the engine from reaching its normal operating temperature. So if your converter has failed and needs to be replaced, the engine should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the new converter is installed. Another cause of converter clogging and contamination is excessive oil consumption. Worn valve guides or seals can allow oil to be sucked into the engine’s combustion chambers. The same goes for worn or damaged rings or cylinders. Oil can form a great deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil can contaminate the catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell you if the rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help you identify worn valve guides.