Houston Auto - Car Maintenance T.V. Interview Channel 11 - Winterizing Your Car - Midtown Auto Service & Repair Houston 2011
How to prepare a car for winter
Your car has a lot to endure during winter - cold weather, slippery roads, salt and sand on the streets. Any hidden problems your car may have will get worse during cold winter. An old battery, engine oil that hasn't bee ... read full story
Midtown Auto Service - Car Care Repair / Service - Houston Pothole TV Interview
While a bumpy road may be a minor nuisance to car drivers, a road littered with potholes can cause expensive car care auto repair / service costs to your car and even result in a car accident. Potholes are bowl-shaped openings in the road ... read full story
Auto Car Care Repair Service Interview-Febuary 2010, Channel 11-Houston,TX
How Auto Car Repair / Service / Care Insurance Works in Houston
Similar to car auto insurance, an auto repair / service / care insurance in Houston policy is a contract between a vehicle owner and the car insurance company, which binds the company ... read full story
Welcome! It's our GOAL at Midtown Auto Service & Repair Shop in Houston to always provide great car care service and high-quality workmanship at a fair price. Midtown Auto Service & Car Repair in Houston is a family-owned business that is specialized in providing personalized service to our customers.
Since 1987, Midtown Auto Service & Car Repair Shop in Houston has been committed to providing the highest quality automobile car repair service at affordable prices. We have established our auto repair business on sound ethical and moral principles. Simply put, our Houston auto repair business focuses on customer service, and your satisfaction is paramount. We want you to be pleased with our services so that you will continue to use us for your automobile repair-service needs in the future and tell your friends.
Our skill and knowledge about automobile car care enable us to address a broad range of auto repair-services of mechanical issues, which means you'll experience a higher, more comprehensive level of car care services and greater value with us.
How do we do it? We listen. Hearing your opinions about our car repair services, observations and concerns make it possible for us to work with you as a team. By earning your trust, we can better guide you toward solutions that meet your specific needs about your car auto repair services.
At Midtown Auto Service & Repair , you'll always get a clear explanation of what's happenings with your car repair, as well as whatever options you should be aware of when making your maintenance and auto repair decisions. That's our commitment to you. Please browse around our website to learn more about us and our commitment to provide you with the best service possible.
One of the highest recognitions for an auto repair shop in Houston is given by the State of Texas to be a Recognized Auto Repair and Emmissions Repair Facility. In turn, it gives us privileges from the State of Texas for issuing Automotive Repair and Replacement Assistance in Houston & the surrounding areas. In 2007, there were less than 100 automotive repair shops in Houston that had this license by the State. That is a big disproportion considering there are over 3400 auto repair shops in Houston and the surrounding areas. Another factor to being a highly recognized Houston auto repair shop is being chosen by General Motors as an Independent Factory Auto Repair Service Center which services all Chevrolet, Cadillac, GMC, Hummer, Oldsmobile, Pontiac & Saturn Cars & Trucks: AC Delco Factory Houston Auto Repair Facility. NAPA Auto Parts also endorses our company as an Approved Napa Auto Car Care Repair Center: All Domestic & Asian Vehicles in Houston which means that their company certifies us to do their repair warranties or any needed car service repairs. Also, our shop is an AAA Approved Auto Repair Facility: All Domestic & Asian Vehicles that employs only ASE certified auto repair technicians.
We are also a proud member of the BBB, and is in good standing with the ethics of the Better Business Bureau for auto repair with an A+ rating. Other accolades include: Angie's List 2008, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Super Service Award. Also, voted by a national campaign for Best Auto Repair Shop in Houston and winner "YAHOO 2005" award. Additionally, The Best of The Year Newspaper awarded the shop with the recognition as the "2006 Best Auto Care in Houston". Operating since 1987, we are conveniently located between the downtown & medical center, also known as Midtown.
car care tip of the day
My Automotive /Car engine has a steady miss and gets terrible fuel milage. What's wrong? Houston, Tx
A steady miss indicates one of three things: a cylinder that isn't firing because of an ignition problem, a cylinder that isn't firing because it isn't receiving fuel (multipoint fuel injected engines only), or a cylinder that has lost compression. The first step in diagnosing this kind of problem is to identify the dead cylinder. A professional mechanic can do this quickly by hooking the engine up to an ignition oscilloscope and displaying an ignition raster pattern. The dead cylinder will show a firing voltage that is significantly higher or lower than its companions depending on the nature of the problem. He might also do a "power balance" test and/or a compression test to find the dead cylinder. One way you can find a weak or dead cylinder is to momentarily disconnect each of your engine's spark plug wires one at a time while the engine is running. When the plug wire is removed from the spark plug, there should be a big drop in idle speed and idle smoothness. When you pull a wire and there's little or no change in idle speed or quality, you've found the bad cylinder. It makes no difference whether you remove each plug wire from the spark plug or the distributor (or coil pack on distributorless ignition systems). The idea is to simply disconnect each cylinder for a moment to see if it makes any difference in the way the engine runs. The one that makes no difference is the problem cylinder. CAUTION: Disconnecting spark plug wires while the engine is dangerous because you risk getting shocked. You can minimize this danger one of several ways. One is to wear rubber gloves and use insulated spark plug wire pliers to momentarily disconnect each plug wire. Another is to make sure no part of your body is touching or leaning against any metal surface on the vehicle (the fender, hood, grille, etc.). Or, you could turn the engine off, remove a plug wire, restart the engine, note any change in idle, then repeat for each of the remaining spark plugs. Ignition Diagnosis If you disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug and hold the end of the wire close to the plug terminal or other metal surface, you should see a spark and/or hear a crisp snapping noise if voltage is getting through the wire. No spark would tell you the plug wire is bad, voltage is arcing inside the distributor cap (remove and inspect the cap for cracks and carbon tracks -- replace if any are found) or a dead coil on a distributorless ignition system (Note: on most distributorless ignition systems, each coil fires two cylinders. So if both cylinders are dead, you know for sure the coil is not working. If only one cylinder is dead, however, it's not the coil). If all of the plug wires seem to be sparking okay, the next step would be to remove the spark plug in the problem cylinder. Fouling is a common cause of ignition misfire. Examine the end of the plug. If the electrode is covered with deposits, clean or replace the spark plug. Also, note the type of deposits on the plug. Thick, black, wet or oily-looking deposits would tell you the cylinder is burning oil (probably due to worn valve guides, rings and/or cylinder wall). If the deposits are a powdery black, the cylinder is running too rich (probably due to a leaky injector on a multipoint fuel injected engine). If the deposits are brown or gray, it indicates a normal buildup. However, the plug may be fouled because it hasn't been changed for a long time, because it is the wrong "heat range" for your engine application (you need a hotter plug), or because of frequent short trip stop-and-go driving. In any event, if the plug is fouled you should probably remove, inspect and clean or replace all of the spark plugs. Fuel Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is receiving spark through the plug wire and the spark plug itself appears to be okay (not wet or fouled), and your engine has multipoint fuel injection you may have a dead fuel injector. To check for this kind of problem, start the engine and place your finger on the injector. You should feel a buzzing vibration if the injector is working. No buzz means the injector is either defective or it is not receiving a voltage signal through its wiring harness. You can check for the presence of voltage with a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. Disconnect the injector wiring connector and attach the test light or voltmeter between the injector and connector. If the light doesn't flash or you don't see a voltage reading when the engine is running, it indicates a wiring or computer problem that will require further diagnosis. If voltage is getting through but the injector isn't working, then the injector is defective and needs to be replaced. Sometimes the injector will appear to be working but really isn't. It will be receiving voltage and buzzing as normal, but because it is clogged up with varnish deposits little or no fuel is actually being squirted into the cylinder. If ignition and compression are both okay in the bad cylinder, therefore, it would tell you the injector is clogged. On-car cleaning may reopen the clogged injector is the varnish isn't built up too thick. But a completely clogged injector usually doesn't respond well to this type of cleaning. It either has to be removed for off-car cleaning (which may or may not succeed id reopening it) or be replaced. Compression Diagnosis If the dead cylinder is getting spark and fuel, the only thing that's left is a compression problem. The most likely causes here would be a leaky valve (probably an exhaust valve since they run much hotter than intake valves and usually fail or "burn" first), a blown head gasket (this usually involves two adjacent cylinders, however), or a rounded or badly worn cam lobe. A compression check will verify if the cylinder is developing its normal compression. Little or no compression would verify any of the above problems. A leakage test could also be used to further diagnose and identify the nature of the problem (valves, head gasket or cam). Air leakage through the exhaust port would indicate a bad exhaust valve. Air leakage back through the intake manifold would indicate a bad intake valve. Air leaking into an adjacent cylinder would indicate a blown head gasket. Minimal leakage would indicate a rounded cam lobe. Leaky valves would require removing the cylinder head and having a valve job performed. A leaky head gasket would require removing the head and replacing the gasket (and probably resurfacing the head to restore flatness). A cam problem would require removing and replacing the camshaft and lifters (old lifters should never be reused with a new cam).